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| Morning Walk around Saddar, Karachi |
After a
relatively long monsoon spell and humid weather, Karachi has started seeing nicer
mornings. Sunday makes it even better with calmer and broader roads.
So past
Sunday morning (September 24th, 2017), we planned a walk around the
old town, Saddar, again but with a different route; from Empress Market
to Frere Hall via St. Joseph College. With heritage buildings, religious
diversity, public parks, and recent renovation the vicinity provides a good wandering
opportunity albeit with a few hygiene lapses.
We left home
at quarter past six, soon after Fajar, and reached the starting point – after picking
another walker from our neighboring block – within half an hour. It was a
pleasure drive; cool pollution-free breeze crossing the car windows like never
before while the sun rising and peeking through the back mirror. The
distracting phone bells only meant that other walkers already made it to the Empress
Market’s parking lot, our assembly point.
There, a dozen
or more cars were already parked, which was kind of unusual. Asif, who was
visiting Karachi from Faisalabad, already found the clue; it was a group of
photography students attending their dawn class to make most of the conducive lighting
needed for outdoor shooting.
Our first
target was Jahangir Park which had been recently rehabilitated by the Sindh
government. Unfortunately, the park entrance was closed; either it was too
early in the day or may be the public place had yet to be inaugurated waiting
for the precious moments from the limited time of an appropriate dignitary!
We continued
towards St. Joseph College. Along the way we stopped at the Zoroastrian Temple
hoping that the caretaker might allow us to go inside, which he frankly
refused. It was not unexpected, as my Zoroastrian acquaintances also told me
that no one out of their community is ever allowed inside their religious
places. The gentle refusal only reignited my curiosity. Maybe non-Zoroastrians
are not pure? Or maybe Zoroastrian rituals are too peculiar for outsiders to
handle? There must be a rational. Please do let me know if you are aware of the
answer.
The road to
St. Joseph College was blocked with containers but luckily there was enough
space for pedestrians to cross over. Barriers were placed because of the
religious congregation of the Bohra community – another group adding color to
Karachi’s religious diversity. Their leader is visiting Karachi these days
after so many years and followers from all around the world, including India,
flocked to our city. They are most welcome! The community is famous for their
mild demeanors and ultra-peaceful nature coupled with shrewd business skills.
On our way,
there was a tea stall welcoming the congregation attendees – who were
assembling in their traditional attire. I wanted to try their tea, only for the
sake of cultural experience, but Asif doubted my intention and pushed me to
keep walking instead.
Soon we
ended up in front of the picturesque St. Patrick Cathedral, which also houses
missionary schools including St. Joseph College, where Urooba (wife) did her
higher secondary from.
The church
was not open for general visitors due to the Sunday service. The caretaker
offered us to give a visit on any other working day. Still it was good enough
for a group photograph from the outside.
In front of
the Cathedral, Urdu alphabets are painted to describe Karachi’s landmarks and
traits. Reading through, we walked to the picturesque Flag Staff House
(Quaid-e-Azam Residency) with a breakfast stopover at a roadside chai-wala.
In last half
an hour, we had a glimpse of three of the distinctive religious groups Karachi
proudly house; Zoroastrians, Bohras, and Christians. The metropolitan embraces
people from all ethnicities and beliefs and respects their rituals – open or
closed. With these feelings, we soon reached Jinnah’s elaborate residency where
we concluded the walk after a brief guided tour of the inside of the mansion.
Right across
the road, I noticed a traffic police contingent busy in collecting bribes. That
was not an unusual site for a person like me who has lived all his life in
Karachi. However, a ranger recruit deployed outside the Quaid-e-Azam museum was
observing the policemen rather keenly. I asked him about the daylight crime. He
was like “Yeh Pakistan hey”!
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| Empress Market Karachi |
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| Use of Wood in an Old Saddar Building |
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| Illegal intrusion in Karachi's Zoroastrian Temple might land you in the court! |
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| Alif Bay of Karachi |
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| Dumpers Required to Clean the Mess! |
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| A Calm Sunday Morning on an Otherwise Busy Junction |
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| A Heritage Structure in need of Rehabilitation |
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| A More Usual Sight around Saddar |
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| This Beautiful Building Still Surviving the Urban Chaos |
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| Mikael Enjoys the Cart Ride |
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| Church Building |
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| Going Towards Frere Hall |
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| Cyclist in Karachi - An Unusual Sight. Traffic Police Collecting Bribes - Usual. |
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| Jinnah's Residency Turned into a Museum |
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| Avari Tower Junction |
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| Fatima Jinnah stayed in his brother's house until Genral Ayyub ousted her |
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| Mikael Giving it a try |
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| Group of Walker in front of St. Patrick Cathederal |
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| The Walk Ended at Quaid-e-Azam's Residency |
