Guru Mandir is Karachi’s busiest and hence the
most polluted traffic junction.
This is where Karachi’s oldest road,
Bandar Road,
later renamed as M A Jinnah Road, starts. Loaded and dilapidated commuter buses bring
shoppers, students, workers and whatnot from Karachi’s infinite localities to
this station with bus conductors wildly waving and chanting at the top of
their lungs: Guru Mandir, Guru Mandir, Guru Mandir!
If you are a
Karachiite in your 30s, or above, you shall effortlessly relate to this mantra
along with the other ear breaking shouts of Saddar, Sadddar, Sadde! But new
generation Karachiites, younger Millennials and Generation Z, might need an
educational Round-the-City trip on the legendary
W-11 to make sense of it!
From the name
Guru Mandir, it suggests that this junction is named after some Hindu Temple,
which shall be located nearby. Presence of such a Mandir would have not been
surprising because precincts around had mainly been inhabited by
Hindus before the 1947 partition. One such neighborhood,
Amil Colony, gently stretches from Mazar-e-Quaid to Islamia Science College and was the prime
abode of Karachi’s Hindu merchants.
However,
this is not the case; there is no Hindu Temple located in the vicinity with this name.
Interestingly, there are at least a couple of Mandirs around, one in the
next-door Soldier Bazar neighborhood called
Shri Punch Mukhi Hanuman Mandir. The other one,
Shiv Mandir is relatively
obscure and located at the far-end of Amil Colony in front of Dawood
Engineering College.
None of them is a Guru Mandir!
So the
question arises, where does Karachi’s Guru Mandir located, if it exists at all?
In search of
the answer, I circumambulated around the chaotic traffic junction a few
times in the past also, peeped into the alleys, and talked to busy shopkeepers, only
to inhale more and more lead filled smoke coming out of bus exhausts while also
threatening my hearing sense amid the pressure horns and unchecked rickshaw
silencers.
Then I tried
Google, obviously!
On the web
space, I found out there were other wanderers also in town bitten by the same
curiosity bug who even documented their finding, or lack of it. Their expeditions
suggest there is indeed a building, right at the intersection, affixed with a
marble nameplate “Gur Mandar” written in English. Ironically, even this
discovery only added to the mystery, rather than resolving it, because
structure of this old building looks like anything but a Mandir.
Below are
those ready readings on the topic:
This month, July
2020, Saher Baloch, one of the writers referred above also, wrote a piece on
BBC Urdu website, finally settling the dust, with a new unexpected perspective, albeit well backed by official records, that this place was actually a Gurdwara – a place
of worship in Sikh religion!
This
unexpected conclusion confused me even more; if Guru Mandir is not a Mandir then what is the authenticity of the
infamous and widely broadcasted attack on Karachi’s Guru Mandir in 1992 by a
Muslim mob in revenge to the sad demolition of Babri Masjid in India? Why a
Gurdwara is named Mandir? How and when "Gur" transformed into "Guru" in the urban jargon? And so on...
Shiv Mandir - Reality vs Controversy
After
reading the BBC article, the curious me woke up again forcing me to search more truth.
I discussed the idea with my wanderer friends to explore around Amil Colony hoping
we could find more links of the story.
So the last
weekend, 18
th and 19
th July 2020, I arranged two back-to-back
Photo Walks around
Jigar Murad Abadi Road which sort of connects the site of Guru Mandir and Shiv Mandir. We started with
the later – existence of which is no myth.
Rather than resolving the case of
Guru Mandir’s existence and denomination, I smelled interesting controversies
around this place also!
At the top
of Shiv Temple entrance, A.D. 1943 is clearly visible. However it is not evident
if this is the date of temple’s first construction or later renovation. What I
know for sure is this place was not in use for past many years, if not decades.
Pondering and wondering why no-one visits this place, especially when other
Mandirs in Karachi are active and frequented by Hindu Yatris, I imagined an
answer perhaps based on my prejudices and street observations rather than any
concrete knowledge. The theory is Shiv Mandir must have been restricted to
higher caste Hindus residing in the affluent neighborhood before the
partition and who migrated to India subsequently. They must not have allowed
the lower caste Hindus who were left behind in Pakistan to visit this Mandir
and rather opted to lock it down.
A couple of
years back I noticed some activity in the Mandir – a group of Hindus from some
other district in Karachi were celebrating Holi inside the previously
inaccessible compound! It was a pleasant surprise to me, more so because it was
the first time I saw the gate of Mandir wide open enabling me to have a glance
inside. At the occasion, I met Saghar, who introduced himself as the caretaker
of Shiv Mandir. I asked if I could visit the place some other calm day when I
would not be a disturbance to the devotees. His response was positive – so I
took his cell number.
Last week
when I called him telling my intentions, he sounded skeptical. I still gave it a try,
took my friends to the Mandir and called him again. He came to the gate but
refused to open it for us telling he was not authorized. I was disappointed but
could understand his position and reluctance since there is a recent
controversy about building of new Mandir in Islamabad and that such things can
easily escalate in the Sub-Continent for violent and chaotic episodes of any
imaginable scale.
When I tried the very next day, again early morning, with next batch of photographer
enthusiasts, two persons suddenly appeared on a motorbike. For once, we forgot
the Mandir and started counting on the luck to protect our mobiles and cameras
from potential muggers. Meanwhile, one of the persons politely asked about the reason of our assembly – hinting they were also on some sort of temple duty. We quickly
controlled our safety instincts and requested him if he could help us
sneak in. We were lucky again – Sajan was a Godsend! Sagar obliged him and let us in
with clear warning that we shall not take photographs. It was still a big deal because
in other accounts, which I referred above, even coercion was reported merely for
observing the site from the outside.
As expected,
a host of idols were present in the temple, Shiv and family being the chief one
residing under the main tomb. What I noticed, maybe out of my prejudice, all
the idols were new – confirming my presumption that the temple was earlier
abandoned purposefully by higher caste Hindus and hinting that it has been now encroached
by some other local Hindu sect only recently – most probably by a lesser caste! The
tomb and the entrance also looked renovated – mainly a repaint. The previously authentic
looking sandstone tomb is now painted white which the contemptuous me found a
little less sacred. While trying to grab a prohibited photo from the inside, I
was hoping that the new white color of the tomb is only an undercoat and will
soon be layered with the original shade.
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| Globe Chowrangi where Jigar Murad Abadi Raod Starts from |
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| Entrance of Shiv Mandir which is Often Confused with Guru Mandir |
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| Plaque at Shiv Mandir is Dated 1943 - Before Partition |
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| Crown of Shiv Mandir is Deprived of Typical Hindu Figurines Except for a Snake and Oam Sign |
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| We Felt Lucky to be Allowed Inside |
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| This Obviously Cannot be Labelled as Religious Harmony |
Haunted Houses and the Surviving Duo
When Hindu
merchants who were living around this Shiv Mandir, in Amil Colony, moved out of
the city after 1947 partition, their properties, mostly 1,000 yard bungalows,
had been exchanged with Muslim merchants who moved in the opposite direction –
from India to Pakistan – through official paperwork. Since then, the locality
had been witnessing a gradual change in its outlooks and character. A series of
urban developments occurred only leaving a few bungalows, or Khoti, in their original condition.
Until a couple
of decades back, when the sprawling low-rise residential buildings had yet to
be envisaged, quite few of such Kothis
used to look like haunted houses mainly due to the lack of maintenance and
inheritance disputes. Later on, ambitious local real estate builders grabbed
the opportunity arose from the change in city by-laws and killed most of these
ghost houses replacing them with double or triple storied apartment blocks.
Among the
surviving Kothis, I spotted a duo not
only well maintained but also possessing striking architectural similarity with
Shiv Mandir!
Crowns at
the facade of these two bungalows and Shiv Mandir are almost identical as if
designed and curated by the same mason. The overall architecture and structure of
these houses indicate that the original inhabitants must have been affluent enough
to construct and maintain such properties. The other interesting, but not
surprising, aspect was the absence of idols and figurines on the facade, which
is otherwise typical to Hindu culture. While having lusty looks on these
heritage treasures, I imagined ganesh sitting in the small empty frames
on outer walls!
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| Probably the Only Surviving Single Story Bungalow in Amil Colony |
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| Front Look: The Original Low Height Boundary Wall is Augmented with a Couple of Brick Layers |
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| A Peek Back Into the History |
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| Closer Look of the Signature Crown |
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| There is Another Authentic One with Double Story Structure and Some Modifications |
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| Facade of the Double Story Survivor |
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| Intricate Design with Crown Resembling the that of Shiv Mandir |
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| Karachi's Vanishing Heritage |
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| Frame on the Outside Wall of Another Nearby Old Bungalow |
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| "ilaqa-e-ghair" Right in the Middle of Karachi |
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| Colorful Mini Patel Para! |
Prasad
On the way
to Gur Mandar, on Jigar Murad Abadi Road, streets are named as Cosmopolitan
Society. We also photographed a few heritage houses there, however, most of
them looked to be built post partition, or fundamentally renovated, in
different decades.
Main target
of our photo walk was to locate the marble slab inscribed with “Gur Mandar”
which was supposed to be located at the other end of Jigar Murad Abadi Road,
across M A Jinnah Road, besides Sabeel Wali Masjid. Before continuing with the
morning walk, we fulfilled the most sacred Karachi ritual of filling ourselves
with Chaye Paratha at the roadside Quetta hotel, or Dhaba. After getting recharged with the tea, we continued the walk
towards our destination complaining about the weather which already turned hot
and humid at 8 am! On the way, the photogenic flower nurseries along with
multicolor clay pots, a vintage bus and Victorian horse carts were hard to
ignore and made the walk longer.
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| The Yummy Layered Paratha |
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| Paratha is Incomplete with a Chainak of Tea |
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| Cosmopolitan Society was said to have Haunted Houses which are no more with us: RIP! |
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| An Old Tree in the Cosmopolitan Society |
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| Can You Spot the Jinn Camouflaged in this Colorful Tree? |
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| Another Relic of the Past |
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| A House in Cosmopolitan Society is Dated 1932 |
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| Protege of Hassan Ali Effendi - an Influential Educationist of 19th Century |
Gur Mandar Discovered
Finally, we
reached Sabeel Wali Masjid and asked the passersby about the exact location of our
destination. One person, who was sipping tea at the Dhaba outside the mosque, directed us to the totally opposite direction.
We circled around the mosque only to find ourselves at the same place with no
success. On the same path, I revealed our intentions to a rickshaw wala who was
resting beneath an old tree. He listened to us and pointed out at some
government building right next to the mosque. I asked him again reiterating my
question more clearly – he also repeated the same gesture, then only I realize
that he was actually pointing out at the exact same plaque we wanted to witness.
Finally, the
pilgrimage was successful and we felt like finding our destiny! Interestingly,
at the top of the building, board of some government department was affixed,
successfully camouflaging the target.
It was
definitely an old structure with low height boundaries and a lot of open space
between the boundary wall and the building inside. The iron gate outside was
totally locked but we could see the whole structure easily through walls. While
we were planning to jump across the walls, a labor sitting outside the wall
under another old tree showed us the other door, which was open. There was
no-one inside the gate, but a teenage boy, of Pathan looks, voluntarily
appeared and accompanied us inside the walls.
The wooden
gate of the inside building was locked more firmly with no chance of further
trespassing. We tried to peek into the inner hall but all the windows around
were also foolproof. Inside the outer boundary, and in front of the main inner
wooden gate, there was a recently constructed structure, which was half-razed
interestingly. The boy told us that it was being constructed illegally some
years back and was then destroyed by the municipal authorities probably during
the recent anti encroachment drives in the city. From the background, it felt
like someone was yelling at us as if hushing away from the antique place.
Ignoring the
untimely divine intervention, we found an interesting seating arrangement –
like a baithak – probably setup by the missing caretaker of the property. Importantly,
it was shaded and enough space for five of us to sit and relax while grabbing a
group photo. It was time to finish with today’s urban exploration – which was
made sure by another teenager of the similar looks who showed up as if in some
emergency. The young angry man was almost yelling at us while telling
fragmented tale of his last fight with the trespassers like us. He was the one
we were hearing from the background while entering into the building. He was
actually shouting from the top of the next-door residential building as part of
his additional sentry duties assigned by some “judge” residing in the
neighborhood!
We had
already achieved our goal and finished with the photoshoot, so there was no
point in staying there anymore. While we were getting out of Gur Mandar
premises, I asked the youthful protocol whether they had been inside of the
building and what did they see? The question toned down the hyper one – the main
benefit of my curiosity. They both hurriedly reported a big empty hall with no
indication if it was a place of worship.
While we
achieved the target for the day, but questions remained unanswered. It was
getting unbearably hot, cooling down our curiosity and rather forcing us to
jump into the rickshaw right from the point we located the sought after plaque:
“Gur Mandar”!
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| Finding this Board was Today's Achievement! |
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| We Tried to Peek In But Windows Were Shut Tight from the Inside |
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| Effects of Thunderstorm and Rain a Day Earlier |
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| The Only Sign of Life in Guru Mandar Compound |
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| A Cozy Place in a Hot and Humid Day |
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| Wish I Could Talk to this Tree Outside the Guru Mandar Compound to Solve the Mystery! |
You can email me at muzamil79@gmail.com if you would like to add anything to the story or if you wish to join us for city tours and excursions
