Karachi to Rann of Kutch, Pakistan-India Border, near Nagarparkar, Thar Desert

Indian Border Fence Overlooking the Rann of Kutch near Nagarparkar, Thar Desert 

Destination

Pakistan-India Border at Choorio Village, Thar Desert,  overlooking the Rann of Kutch on the Indian Side which is also called White Desert, 40km from Nagarparkar, 500km from Karachi

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Rann_of_Kutch

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thar_Desert

The Great Rann of Kutch
Also called White Desert, the Great Rann of Kucth, a huge saline marshland mostly located in India, is said to be world's largest salt desert. It stretches between the mouth of River Indus, in Pakistan, to the Gulf of Kutch (Arabian Sea), in India. 

Nagarparkar is at the confluence of Rann of Kutch and Thar Desert, which is also called the Great Indian Desert.

Trip Duration: 3 days

February 2 Karachi-Nagarparkar

February 3 Nagarparkar-Border-Nagarparkar

February 4 Nagarparkar-Karachi

A View from Choorio Temple Top, Confluence of Thar Desert on Pakistan Side and Rann of Kutch marshalnds on the Indian Side

Feel of the Desert, Between Badin and Mithi, Thar, Sindh

Saturday, February 2, 2019

06:30 Left Karachi. Sunrise on Karachi-Makli National Highway.

08:30 Breakfast, past Sajawal at a roadside “Quetta” hotel.

09:30 Resumed the journey towards Badin and Mithi.

10:00 Entered Tharparkar District from Badin

11:00 Reached Mithi, roamed around the city and visited a recently constructed charity hospital.

12:30 Lunch break at a dhaba, off the main road in the vicinity of Thar Coal Mines.

13:30 Resumed for the last leg.

15:30 Reached Nagarprakar, got settled. Offered Zhuar Asar qasar prayers.

17:00 Visited the nearby Kasbo village, back to Nagarparkar by 19:00 and called it a day after having dinner.

Sunday, February 3, 2019

06:30 Short hiking and trekking on Nagarparkar's Kanjhoro Village till Sardhoro temple.

09:30 Breakfast

11:00 Left for Choorio temple at Pakistan-India border, 40km from Nagarparkar, In the hired 4x4, Ramesh 03412267900 (Recommended).

12:30 Reached Choorio Village and climbed the Jog Maya Mandir Rocks overlooking India-Pakistan border fence with views of the White Desert; the Great Rann of Kutch.

15:00 Left Choorio village and returned to Nagarparkar by 16:30. Skipped today’s lunch as per the plan.

17:00 Roamed around Nagarparkar Bazaar. Had roadside pakoray and tea.

19:00 Dinner. Packed for early morning return journey next day.

Monday, February 4, 2019

07:00 Left Nagarparkar

09:00 Breakfast at Mithi bypass. 09:45 resumed the journey

12:00 Tea break before Sajawal. Skipped the lunch as per the plan

15:30 Back to Karachi Alhamdolillah

Courtesy: Dr. Zeeshan for kind arrangements

(Above timings are approximate)

Started the Journey Early Morning: Sunrise at Karachi-Makli Section of National Highway 

Breakfast Break at a Roadside "Quetta" Hotel After Crossing Sajawal Bypass

Finding a Clean Toilet, Even if Basic, is a Major Challenge while Travelling around Pakistan

A Rundown Sunflower Field Near Badin 

Thar Desert Starts No:w Badin-Mithi Road, Tharparkar, Sindh 

Police Check-post at Tharparkar Entrance 

Probably Some Kind of Desi Coal Processing (?) at Tharparkar Entrance

Heading Straight Towards Mithi Instead of Going via Diplo in the South 

Junction Connecting Naukut and Badin to Mithi Road 

Nagarparkar's Kanjhoro Hills Around Sunset 

Hired 4x4 from Ramesh (Recommended) to visit India-Pakistan border at Choorio Village, 40km from Nagarparkar, Phone: 03412267900, Rate: Rs. 3000-4000 Round Trip 

Uphill Jog Maya Mandir Entrance, Choorio Village at Pakistan India Border, 40km from Nagarparkar 

Lions at the Entrance of Jog Maya Mandir Choorio Village at Pakistan India Border, 40km from Nagarparkar, 500km from Karachi 

Lion Statue with Pigeons at Jog Maya Mandir, Thar Desert 

Water, Sacred (spelling intended) Resource around Thar Desert, at Mandir Jog Maya, Goth Choorio

Relaxing at Mandir Top Overlooking Rann of Kutch on the Indian Side (Far End Near the Horizon) 

Water Pumping Motor at Jog Maya Mandir

Group of Local Kids at Choorio Village, Nagarparkar, Thar Desert 

Government Boys Primary School (Main), Nagarparkar Town

Thar's Development Story: A Journey from Obsolete Kekra to Modern Chingchi (Sarcasm Intended)

Street Food: Seasonal Carrot Halwa at Nagarparkar Bazaar (I Couldn't Dare It!)

Street Food: Had Tea from this Nagarparkar Bazaar Roadside Hindu Vendor, Who Reconfirmed If We Were Fine Having His Tea Being Muslims 

While Driving on Thar Roads, Please be Watchful of Cattle - Goats, Sheep, Cows, and Camels. 

Road Condition: 450km Karachi-Nagarparkar

Karachi to Nagarparkar road has not only improved a great deal, as compared to when I last visited in 2013, but the shorter route through Badin is also fully functional now, courtesy full swing development work at Thar Coal Mines near Islamkot city. The new route has cut down the travel time by 2-3 hours from the previously preferred, but longer, route through Hyderabad, Mirpur Khas, and Nuakot.

Karachi-Maklli-Sajawal-Badin

We first took Karachi-Makli National Highway and turned right just before Makli city, through bypass, towards Sajawal and Badin. This part of the National Highway, ~100km, and beyond, is recently renovated as a dual carriage and has thus transformed into an excellent drive.

The single carriage Makli-Sajawal-Badin road, a little over 100km, is also in good shape with bypasses circumventing most of the enroute bigger towns and cities, making it a comfortable drive. 

Badin-Mithi-Islamkot-Nagarparkar

Badin-Mithi is another 100km or so single carriage pleasant drive, which meets the Mirpurkhas-Naukot-Mithi road near Mithi. The smooth road then passes through Islamkot town before crossing Thar Coal Mines Turn, named Engro Morr, 50km from Mithi.

After crossing Engor Morr, the road towards Nagarparkar, another 80km, gets worse, with potholes and withered sides, making it not only uncomfortable but also risky to drive. Hope this part of the indigenous local population will also get some fruits of development in the near future.

Overall, it was a good driving experience and took 9 hours, in total, one way. with a couple of extended stops. On the return, it took around 8 hours due to brief stops, which is conveniently and safely doable without over-speeding. 

Nagarparkar to India-Pakistan Border (Choorio Village)
The visit to India-Pakistan border till Jog Maya Mandir at Choorio Village is possible through 4x4, which can be hired from Nagarparkar Bazaar. We went with Ramesh, 03412267900 and paid him Rs. 3,000. Recommended. It was one and a half hour tough ride, as compared to Karachi-Nagarparkar pleasant drive. It can get really hot during the day so keeping drinking water, which is scarce there, will be wise. Round trip will cost around Rs. 3000-4000.

Caution: Cattle Crossing

Cattle crossing - sheep, goats, cows, and camels - is a common occurrence around Thar roads and require driver vigilance. A friend who recently visited Nagarparkar with a group met an accident, in the night, when their hi-ace windscreen smashed with the head of peeking camel. So night driving is not recommended in this area. Another fellow traveler also reported hitting a sheep, in the daylight, thankfully without any damage.

Drinking Water: Keeping water for a desert trip cannot be overemphasized. Although we also tried the enroute water wells for experience.

Weather: November to March is the preferred season to visit Thar keeping in view the harsh climate in summers. It was perfect weather when we visited (February 2019) with cold breeze and pleasantly warm around noon.

Earlier Visits
It was my third Thar visit and second journey to Nagarparkar. Below are the reports from earlier trips:
Nagarparkar First Visit (March 2013): http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2013/03/karachi-nagarparkar-road-trip-thar.html
Umerkot (November 2011): http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2011/11/peek-in-thar-desert-two-days-in-umerkot.html

Roaming Around Patan Darbar Square

This is Day 10 of Nepal Travelogue (May 22, 2013)

 Day 11 Day 9  

Day 8  Day 7  Day 6  Day 5
Day 4  Day 3  Day 2  Day 1 

An Antique Prayer Bell at Patan Darbar Square

After exploring the jungle we returned back to Kathmandu, which is not only a hub for trekkers heading to high Himalayas but also a place worth exploring in its own. 

Kathmandu Zoo

Before shifting the gear fully to sight-seeing mode we first concluded the wildlife episode by visiting the Kathmandu Zoo. Since it was in the proximity to Zaeem’s workplace (our hosts in Kathmandu) he offered us the ride and also took his son Rafan for the outing.

Kathmandu’s Central Zoo is the only zoo in Nepal – perhaps a country so rich in wildlife might not need even one! Nonetheless, it was a good experience. Most of the animals were brought from the tropical sanctuaries around the region and looked well kept – if I compare that to Karachi Zoo. The giant hippo was in activity mood attracting spectators’ attention while the Bengal tiger, whom we could not meet in the jungle, was also getting restless.

Apart from the animals, the interesting thing was the entrance fee. Ticket for locals was priced at NPR 100 while it was NPR 500 for foreigners, five times dearer. There I successfully distorted my Urdu to sound more like a local, or Indian, to get the subsidized one: all’s fair in travel and love!

Kathmandu Zoo - Ticket Counter

The Hip Hippo

Hey Big Mouth!

Rhino Asks Where's My Horn?

Bengal Tiger in Nepal!

A Nepali Buffalo

Harmless!

Study Tour

Studious Ones

And the Weird One!

Patan Darbar Square

After ogling enough at flying squirrels and other weird species we walked to Patan to visit the antique Darbar Square; a ‘must see’ sight in Nepal. Actually there are three such squares; each in Kathmandu’s three valleys – Kathmandu downtown, Patan, and Bhaktapur, collectively designated as UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In the middle of everywhere, Darbar Square was as bustling and thriving as it could be with archaic structures spread all around. Architecture was impressive and reminiscent of various periods in country’s history. Again I found the site well maintained especially when judged against to such comparable places around Karachi, e.g. Makli, etc.

Although it was fenceless, i.e. no apparent restriction to wander around the busy street, government found its own ways to differentiate tourists from locals to obviously charge them. As soon as the proceeds are going for the upkeep of this historical treasure, I guess no one would mind being charged reasonably.

In the morning Kathrine graciously invited us for the in-house dinner; so after a day of sightseeing we rushed back to our home in Kathmandu where sumptuous grilled chicken, stuffed with flavorsome vegetables, was waiting for us. Post feast we had a cup of coffee together with our kind hosts and shared our traveling and other life experiences at length. The best part was that the kids, ours and theirs, also clicked in promising a good time in the coming days.

Going Towards Patan Darbar Square

An Ancient Structure at Patan Darbar Sqaure

The Big Bang

Patan Darbar Square from the Top

Darbar Square's Busy Street

Intricacy

Woodwork

This is Where Sacrificial Buffalo Are Tied Up

Guards

The Green Backyard

People Lined up for the Holy Water

Traditional Nepali Cap

And Pajama

A 'Rath' Was in the Making Near Jawalakhel

This Rath was to be Paraded in the Coming Festival

Asheerbad

Today’s Bills – in Nepali Rupees

300		Sight Seeing		Entrance Ticket: Kathmandu Zoo
90		Food		Cone Ice Cream!
200		Sight Seeing		Entrance Ticket: Patan Darbar Square
130		Food		Snacks
30		Logistics		Bus - Lagankhel to Nakhu
0		Accommodation		Couch Surfing!
750		Total for May 22, 2013
28390		Total as of Today

Traveler's Tip # 19: Keep Kathmandu at the Tail-End of Your Nepal Trip

Most of the tourists in Nepal first arrive in Kathmandu and then spread around the countryside either for trekking or for exploring religious and wilderness sites. Kathmandu is itself worth spending 3-4 days as there are various cultural and historical sites skipping which will be a big mistake. However, it would be better to keep Kathamdnu sight-seeing at the tail-end of the trip, i.e. before departure, rather than doing right after landing there. This strategy will give you an emergency buffer in case you may not return back to Kathmandu in time due to various reasons, such as logistic hurdles, which is not uncommon in the mountainous Nepal.

Continue to the Travelogue of Day 11