Karachi to Rann of Kutch, Pakistan-India Border, near Nagarparkar, Thar Desert

Indian Border Fence Overlooking the Rann of Kutch near Nagarparkar, Thar Desert 

Destination

Pakistan-India Border at Choorio Village, Thar Desert,  overlooking the Rann of Kutch on the Indian Side which is also called White Desert, 40km from Nagarparkar, 500km from Karachi

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Rann_of_Kutch

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thar_Desert

The Great Rann of Kutch
Also called White Desert, the Great Rann of Kucth, a huge saline marshland mostly located in India, is said to be world's largest salt desert. It stretches between the mouth of River Indus, in Pakistan, to the Gulf of Kutch (Arabian Sea), in India. 

Nagarparkar is at the confluence of Rann of Kutch and Thar Desert, which is also called the Great Indian Desert.

Trip Duration: 3 days

February 2 Karachi-Nagarparkar

February 3 Nagarparkar-Border-Nagarparkar

February 4 Nagarparkar-Karachi

A View from Choorio Temple Top, Confluence of Thar Desert on Pakistan Side and Rann of Kutch marshalnds on the Indian Side

Feel of the Desert, Between Badin and Mithi, Thar, Sindh

Saturday, February 2, 2019

06:30 Left Karachi. Sunrise on Karachi-Makli National Highway.

08:30 Breakfast, past Sajawal at a roadside “Quetta” hotel.

09:30 Resumed the journey towards Badin and Mithi.

10:00 Entered Tharparkar District from Badin

11:00 Reached Mithi, roamed around the city and visited a recently constructed charity hospital.

12:30 Lunch break at a dhaba, off the main road in the vicinity of Thar Coal Mines.

13:30 Resumed for the last leg.

15:30 Reached Nagarprakar, got settled. Offered Zhuar Asar qasar prayers.

17:00 Visited the nearby Kasbo village, back to Nagarparkar by 19:00 and called it a day after having dinner.

Sunday, February 3, 2019

06:30 Short hiking and trekking on Nagarparkar's Kanjhoro Village till Sardhoro temple.

09:30 Breakfast

11:00 Left for Choorio temple at Pakistan-India border, 40km from Nagarparkar, In the hired 4x4, Ramesh 03412267900 (Recommended).

12:30 Reached Choorio Village and climbed the Jog Maya Mandir Rocks overlooking India-Pakistan border fence with views of the White Desert; the Great Rann of Kutch.

15:00 Left Choorio village and returned to Nagarparkar by 16:30. Skipped today’s lunch as per the plan.

17:00 Roamed around Nagarparkar Bazaar. Had roadside pakoray and tea.

19:00 Dinner. Packed for early morning return journey next day.

Monday, February 4, 2019

07:00 Left Nagarparkar

09:00 Breakfast at Mithi bypass. 09:45 resumed the journey

12:00 Tea break before Sajawal. Skipped the lunch as per the plan

15:30 Back to Karachi Alhamdolillah

Courtesy: Dr. Zeeshan for kind arrangements

(Above timings are approximate)

Started the Journey Early Morning: Sunrise at Karachi-Makli Section of National Highway 

Breakfast Break at a Roadside "Quetta" Hotel After Crossing Sajawal Bypass

Finding a Clean Toilet, Even if Basic, is a Major Challenge while Travelling around Pakistan

A Rundown Sunflower Field Near Badin 

Thar Desert Starts No:w Badin-Mithi Road, Tharparkar, Sindh 

Police Check-post at Tharparkar Entrance 

Probably Some Kind of Desi Coal Processing (?) at Tharparkar Entrance

Heading Straight Towards Mithi Instead of Going via Diplo in the South 

Junction Connecting Naukut and Badin to Mithi Road 

Nagarparkar's Kanjhoro Hills Around Sunset 

Hired 4x4 from Ramesh (Recommended) to visit India-Pakistan border at Choorio Village, 40km from Nagarparkar, Phone: 03412267900, Rate: Rs. 3000-4000 Round Trip 

Uphill Jog Maya Mandir Entrance, Choorio Village at Pakistan India Border, 40km from Nagarparkar 

Lions at the Entrance of Jog Maya Mandir Choorio Village at Pakistan India Border, 40km from Nagarparkar, 500km from Karachi 

Lion Statue with Pigeons at Jog Maya Mandir, Thar Desert 

Water, Sacred (spelling intended) Resource around Thar Desert, at Mandir Jog Maya, Goth Choorio

Relaxing at Mandir Top Overlooking Rann of Kutch on the Indian Side (Far End Near the Horizon) 

Water Pumping Motor at Jog Maya Mandir

Group of Local Kids at Choorio Village, Nagarparkar, Thar Desert 

Government Boys Primary School (Main), Nagarparkar Town

Thar's Development Story: A Journey from Obsolete Kekra to Modern Chingchi (Sarcasm Intended)

Street Food: Seasonal Carrot Halwa at Nagarparkar Bazaar (I Couldn't Dare It!)

Street Food: Had Tea from this Nagarparkar Bazaar Roadside Hindu Vendor, Who Reconfirmed If We Were Fine Having His Tea Being Muslims 

While Driving on Thar Roads, Please be Watchful of Cattle - Goats, Sheep, Cows, and Camels. 

Road Condition: 450km Karachi-Nagarparkar

Karachi to Nagarparkar road has not only improved a great deal, as compared to when I last visited in 2013, but the shorter route through Badin is also fully functional now, courtesy full swing development work at Thar Coal Mines near Islamkot city. The new route has cut down the travel time by 2-3 hours from the previously preferred, but longer, route through Hyderabad, Mirpur Khas, and Nuakot.

Karachi-Maklli-Sajawal-Badin

We first took Karachi-Makli National Highway and turned right just before Makli city, through bypass, towards Sajawal and Badin. This part of the National Highway, ~100km, and beyond, is recently renovated as a dual carriage and has thus transformed into an excellent drive.

The single carriage Makli-Sajawal-Badin road, a little over 100km, is also in good shape with bypasses circumventing most of the enroute bigger towns and cities, making it a comfortable drive. 

Badin-Mithi-Islamkot-Nagarparkar

Badin-Mithi is another 100km or so single carriage pleasant drive, which meets the Mirpurkhas-Naukot-Mithi road near Mithi. The smooth road then passes through Islamkot town before crossing Thar Coal Mines Turn, named Engro Morr, 50km from Mithi.

After crossing Engor Morr, the road towards Nagarparkar, another 80km, gets worse, with potholes and withered sides, making it not only uncomfortable but also risky to drive. Hope this part of the indigenous local population will also get some fruits of development in the near future.

Overall, it was a good driving experience and took 9 hours, in total, one way. with a couple of extended stops. On the return, it took around 8 hours due to brief stops, which is conveniently and safely doable without over-speeding. 

Nagarparkar to India-Pakistan Border (Choorio Village)
The visit to India-Pakistan border till Jog Maya Mandir at Choorio Village is possible through 4x4, which can be hired from Nagarparkar Bazaar. We went with Ramesh, 03412267900 and paid him Rs. 3,000. Recommended. It was one and a half hour tough ride, as compared to Karachi-Nagarparkar pleasant drive. It can get really hot during the day so keeping drinking water, which is scarce there, will be wise. Round trip will cost around Rs. 3000-4000.

Caution: Cattle Crossing

Cattle crossing - sheep, goats, cows, and camels - is a common occurrence around Thar roads and require driver vigilance. A friend who recently visited Nagarparkar with a group met an accident, in the night, when their hi-ace windscreen smashed with the head of peeking camel. So night driving is not recommended in this area. Another fellow traveler also reported hitting a sheep, in the daylight, thankfully without any damage.

Drinking Water: Keeping water for a desert trip cannot be overemphasized. Although we also tried the enroute water wells for experience.

Weather: November to March is the preferred season to visit Thar keeping in view the harsh climate in summers. It was perfect weather when we visited (February 2019) with cold breeze and pleasantly warm around noon.

Earlier Visits
It was my third Thar visit and second journey to Nagarparkar. Below are the reports from earlier trips:
Nagarparkar First Visit (March 2013): http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2013/03/karachi-nagarparkar-road-trip-thar.html
Umerkot (November 2011): http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2011/11/peek-in-thar-desert-two-days-in-umerkot.html

Authentic Pakistan: Tea and Chicken Karhai at Quetta Hotel

A Typical Quetta Tea Hotel on National Highway

Quetta Tea Hotels are not to be confused; they are not limited to Quetta but can be found anywhere in Pakistan. They are impossible to ignore, especially in Karachi, or on Highways.

Their specialty is fresh strong tea, which is so good and addictive that some people believe that "something" is mixed. Bhang (cannabis), or something like that. But I don't believe in such conspiracy theories! Interestingly, although these ubiquitous hotels are not part of any franchise yet almost all of them have similar attributes, including taste, just like a modern day brand.

I took these photos while traveling to Makli Necropolis, a UNESCO heritage site located near Karachi, with a visiting cousin. We wanted to have tea and fortunately found this hotel, with the enthusiastic "ustaad", on the main National Highway, just before Makli.

Here goes some more tea photos with trademark "parathas":

Parathas at Quetta Hotel are a Great Combination with their Strong Tea

Tea Tasting: "Ustaad" is making sure that the tea is having right quantities of milk, tea, and sugar!

Tea in the Making

Below is Chicken Karhai served with oven-hot whole-wheat Bread:

Fresh Chicken Karhai

One Type of Pakistani Roti 

Trip Report: Away from the Urban and the Modern (Part 2)

So here goes the second and the final part of the trip (See Part 1)

Shahjahan Mosque: An Acoustic Miracle 

Sunlight making its way inside of the mosque

The namesake of the legendary Mughal emperor, Shahjahan Mosque was the farthest point in our trip, and was ideal to have a midway break after having lunch at a roadside hotel. Although the mosque may not be the best of the structural masterpieces built by various Mughal Emperors, it however fully reflects to what extent Shahjahan had been a connoisseur of art and architecture and to what physical distance his penchant reached. The place is probably the only and is surely the closest reminiscent of Golden Age of India from Karachi. The grandeur was impactful if not breathtaking and the symmetry was astonishing.

 

Shahjahan Mosque

Detailed corner designs

Yellow stone work

An eyecatching pattern

It is actually the symmetry which makes the place an acoustic miracle; sound travels in the hallways without any external support so that all believers can hear the reciting of Imam easily even if they are standing at a distance. The phenomenon can still be observed!

Sound travels through these arches!

Artwork on arches

Fortunately Zohar prayers were about to commence (2 pm) and the mosque is still functional giving us a chance to appreciate the genius with the authentic experience. However, the number of participants suggested that the glory of the place has long gone.

Dilapitated condition of the moque

Directions: The site is around 80 km from Qaidabad and is easily navigable through online maps. Watch out for the rickshaw stand on the National Highway and turn right, you will be there in 2-3 minutes. One may also take help from passersby if required.

Makli Necropolis

A vault inside Makli

 On our way back, we stopped briefly at supposedly the world’s largest graveyard. And what can you expect overthere other than a combination of the oldest, older, and old crypts! So we confined ourselves to visiting one vault which was in line with the Chowkundi design albeit a lot more detailed. There was a guy at the entrance of the vault demanding a fee which was actually meant for foreigners only (Rs. 200) so we just ignored him.



Vault front



Boundary walls of the vault

Stone work inside the vault

Directions: The cemetery is located on the main National Highway a few kilometers short of Thatta and is clearly visible. Once you arrive there, take the car inside upon paying a fee from the entrance which is on the right side of the main entrance and then park the car inside where you want to take a look around.

Bhanbore: The Port of Deebal

Advent of Islam in the sub continent

Bhanbore is an excavated archeological site believed to be an ancient port city, named Deebal, where Muhammad bin Qasim started his Sindh campaign from. The site is complimented with a museum which exhibits excavate pieces of artifacts and pottery belonging to lost civilizations in addition to a model depicting the famous war between the young Muslim warriors and Raja Dahir. We offered Asar prayer on a preserved patch of land located on a rock and marked as the first ever mosque of the subcontinent.

A model depicting the historical model of Deebal

Explaining the site

Bhanbore Museum opens everyday including public holidays except for the first Monday of each month. Winter timings are till 4 pm and we were half an hour late but the staff showed courtesy and reopened the museum for us.

The old city of Bhanbore is also famous for a romantic tale of Sassi and Panhu often referred to in the folk poetry.

Directions: From Karachi, on the National Highway, watch for a signboard on your right when the milestone suggests that Thatta is still 41 kilometers. Turn left and follow directions, it will take you 5-10 minutes, avoid days with heavy rains as the road off the highway, which is otherwise in motorable condition, may get inundated.

Sunset at Bhanbore

Sunset at Bhanbore

Sunset at Bhanbore

Sunset at Bhanbore

Sunset at Bhanbore

Sunset at Bhanbore

Sunset at Bhanbore

 Overall, the trip was fun especially with friends and is moderately recommended for a day break especially during days when there is nothing much to do. Winter months of December to February are the only good period to make this excursion to avoid the scorching heat in the other part of the year.

One thing that surprised me was the mentioning of Late President Ziaul Haq by the staff looking after those sites who praised him as the only incumbent who cared about maintaining these sites. This is contrary to the popular chauvinistic image of Mr. Zia who is considered an ignoramus especially in the local print media. The recent government has also allocated funds to promote tourism in the province however it would only be a surprise if even some the grants can be spared from corruption!

Road Conditions: National Highway is not in the excellent condition when compared to Super Highway although it is perfectly motorable with speed ranging from 50-80 km. Most of the track is single lane and you may find people crossing the road at their ease in addition to slow moving carts and rickshaws.

Trip Members: Saeed Khan, Haris Mahmood, Tariq Mahmood, and I.

The troupe