Dolphin Sighting in Ormara and Volcano Hiking

Little Hikers and Haris Scaling Mud Volcano 

Makran Coastal Highway is a great escape from Karachi; a dream long-drive cutting across a beautiful natural terrain. Last weekend, the opportunity arrived again and we drove all the way to Ormara, ~350 km from Karachi, and stayed there overnight thanks to our lovely friend, Haris Tohid.

Dolphins Sighting 

It was the highlight of the holiday. While boating around the channel in the morning, we noticed dolphins also in addition to usual small fish and preying birds. There were plenty of them showing off their acrobatic skills. Ali was the Lucky Charm and also captured one of those from close. Here she goes:

A post shared by Ali A. Siddiqui (@ali_siddiquie) on Feb 18, 2018 at 5:59am PST

Hiking on Mud Volcano

Before reaching Ormara, we made a detour to see the active Volcano, called Chandragup, which bubbles out mud, usually gently.

Most of us hiked till the crater testing our fitness in "full noon". Kids outperformed and especially enjoyed the natural slide on the steep descend. I got there, almost, but had to come down due to nausea eventually bringing out the heavy breakfast; chai, paratha, omelettes, etc. which we had at a roadside hotel just before Winder city.


Click here for details of my previous camping night at Mud Volcano 

Chandragup Volcano at Makran Coast Spewing Fresh Mud

Live Crater of Chandragup Mud Volcano

Chilling at Ormara Hammerhead

Sunset at Ormara Hammerhead

Ormara Beach from the Top; Check Out the Rocks

Relaxing after a Long Drive and Hiking

Princess of Hope

Trip to Coastal Highway is Incomplete without Paying Homage to the Princess of Hope

Driving Information
We left Karachi before 8 am, and reached Ormara around 2:30 pm, with enroute stops for breakfast, volcano hiking, and a couple of photo shoots. It was quicker on the way back, ~5 hours, with only one quick stop at the truck hotel located around Hingol River Bridge. There, Al-Hassan Hotel is a good option for fresh meal or tea break.

Makran Coastal Highway is as smooth a drive as it could be. It was conveniently possible to maintain well above 120 km, except for the ~40 km hilly patch between Kund Malir and Buzi Pass. That patch has sharp turns, attention grabbing natural rock carvings including the Princess of Hope and Sphinx like formation, and vast canyon views; so one has to be extra careful especially when emergency facilities are non-existent.

RCD Highway is now very well paved but a busy road demanding a lot of driving attention.

Keeping a can of extra fuel (15-25 liters) is recommended if driving to Ormara, or more if beyond, unless willing to use the suspicious quality smuggled gasoline. Being the last resort, there is one fuel station in Winder city, on the RCD Highway, which sells regulated one.

If you are planning to visit the Makran Coast and need information about traveling conditions, you can write me at muzamil79@gmail.com

Photo Courtesy: Ali, Haris, Hasan, Khurram, and Zeeshan

Nostalgia: It was 2008 when we first visited Oramara, again courtesy Haris. Then we were 5 in 1 car. Population has grown up significantly in the last decade, evident from the latest census results. So this time we were 20 people Mashallah; including spouses and kids, in 5 cars!

Makran Coastal Highway: near Buzi Pass

It was 2008!

Family Camping at Kund Malir

Our Beachside Campsite at Hingol

Recently, a friend asked the reason why my travel blog has been quiet for some time. Mikael’s admission to prenursery and me switching the job kept us so busy that I could not even share the Ranikot dash we planned earlier this year with friends’ families and the Ormara leisure retreat we did in May – courtesy a great ex-colleague. 

 

After the adjustment pause, and with the change of weather, came two back to back adventures; first a 2 days family camping at Kund Malir followed by a 3 days ultimate voyage to the Astola Island! (Stay tuned for the enthralling details of the later of the duo)

 

Although we have been to the Makran Coastal Highway a many times, however, a family camping trip had been longtime due and needed someone like the generous Ghori Family for that to become a reality.  

 

It was the wee hours of October 17, 2015 when we (Mikael, Misha, Urooba, and I) left the home. Car’s trunk was stuffed with the required essentials; clothing, water gallon with stand and tap, extra fuel can, snacks and juices, a big chatai, popup mosquito net, medicine box, etc. At the meeting point, around SITE, ice box and the camping tent was also added to it while the rest of the stuff including food was already loaded on the rooftop carrier of our travel companions’ Hi-roof.  

 

We witnessed the sunrise on the RCD Highway after crossing Hub city and before stopping for the anda-paratha breakfast at a better looking truck hotel just short of Windar city. The next milestone was Hingol Bridge River where we reached well before noon with three brief stopovers: 1) Zero Point (the junction between the RCD Highway and the Makran Coastal Highway); 2) Bismillah Hotel where Ghori Sb had to hello-hi an acquaintance; and 3) at Coast Guard’s Chor check post. 

 

The Coast Guard post was the only security check we had to pass through in the whole journey, which was opposite to my earlier experiences when there were more checks. Even those guards were not much bothered and did not ask for the routine register entry. To me the low security was the sign of improving law and order situation, or maybe I’m a bit over optimistic. What do you think? Thankyou Raheel Sharif!?

 

At Hingol River Bridge, we had a much needed drinks break at Al-Hasan Hotel – my favorite stopover situated at the other end of the river – before making a detour to visit the primitive Hinglaj Temple situated inside the Hingol National Park. There is a paved road from the highway all the way to the site. With the construction of a bridge the pathway has become more convenient so it took us hardly half an hour to reach there. We parked the car inside the vicinity and walked to the cave encapsulating the cubical sanctuary. Signs of development were also visible – most notable of which was the paved walkway to the cavern which to me did less service to the pilgrims than did the disservice to the ambiance of the naturally scenic location. 

 

Contrary to my previous pilgrimages, when I found the temple – aka Nani Mandir – deserted, there were signs of life. A group of Hindu yatris was visiting from the Interior Sindh. Some of them were towing barefoot toddler sons for divine blessings. Inside the main temple, the busy Maharaj was seated beside the orange figurines in his typical posture. He took out time for us and elaborated about the commencement of the 9 day festival which is the second in importance, according to him, after the one happens earlier in the year. Besides feeling lucky to get the entry as the premises was then closed for non-Hindus due to the ritual, my mind was also trying to make a connection between Muharram and this ceremony, which is also linked to the lunar calendar. Just to make a point, Aashura has got tremendous significance in the Muslim history which goes all the way to Hazrat Nooh and Hazrat Adam, the reason of two days fasting, in addition to its connection to the sacrifice of Imam Hussain. 

 

We got back to the Al-Hasan Hotel for lunch and decided to stay for an extra hour post lunch waiting for the sun to go down further. Mid-October sun was still hot however the air was cool and refreshing. The moment I shared the idea of having a nap in the cool backyard with Shahzad Ghori, Mikael’s echoing screeched filled the whole surrounding. He fell over and got a cut on his forehead with blood flowing on his face. Initially it looked needing stitches but luckily, Alhamdolillah, it was not that serious and Urooba made use of her medical college training and managed that with the medicine box.

 

Soon we were back on the highway and finally made it to the camping site, Karachi – 249, leaving the Kund Malir beach around 10-15 kilometers behind us. Kund Malir has been gaining popularity among Karachiites which was visible at Al-Hasan Hotel where we met several tour groups coming from the chaotic metropolitan. It was a good sign, but there was a flipside also; the once virgin beauty was cluttered with the haphazard construction. However, one could still find clean stretches a little ahead.

 

At the last accessible beach from the road, also called Melan, we decided to setup our temporary abode. The sun was preparing to set behind the ocean encroaching hill on our right when we were erecting our camps. It was a clean secluded sandy beach slightly downhill from the highway. Cars were parked so that they were visible from the campsite. Ghoris knew their business and within minutes everything was ready; from encampments to the makeshift kitchen and from fishing equipment to the LED lighting system. Our kids were somewhat perplexed in the beginning, since it was their first time camping. Especially, the idea of responding to the nature’s call in the open nature was completely alien to them. 

 

But soon the excitement of freedom overwhelmed all feelings. While the Bihari Boti Karhai was in the making, kids had good fun running around unrestrictedly and playing with the abundant sand. As a father, seeing kids enjoying the liberty of it was a moment of satisfaction for me. I was also hoping that the unpolluted air, the antiseptic sand, and the Vitamin D from the early morning sun would strengthen their immunity to fight the unavoidable viral infections every school going child is supposed to suffer from. 

 

Following the sumptuous dinner, the much awaited bonfire started. Luckily, the air calmed down making it more convenient and pleasant for us. It was only us and the nature; gentle sea breeze, rhythmic sea waves, noiseless surrounding, and a glittering sky. On top of it, the aroma of chargrilled sweet potatoes and corns was making it all so surreal. 

 

Beams of spotlights and soldierly shouts brought us back to the real life. It was the Coast Guard patrol up on the highway who finally noticed our presence in the wilderness. It was not unexpected and Dr. Ghori knew how to deal with them. We took that more of a sign to go to the bed, or in fact to the camp. Trying to squeeze besides kids’ mosquito netting the last thought popped up in my mind was the outrageous tsunami prediction I read on some tabloid a couple of days back! 

 

Fortunately, the prophecy proved to be a rumor and we woke up to a beautiful morning. The sun was about to rise on our left from the ocean; a lovely setting which we observed with family! In the meantime, the breakfast was also being prepared as Shahzad wanted to wind up before the same serene orange ball would convert into a hell sphere. We were back in our cars by 8 am praising him as it was already getting hot with scorching sunrays directly hitting our faces. 

 

Return journey was eventless and after making brief stopovers we reached back home at around 1:30 pm, with sunburns and lifelong memories. 

 



Sunrise on the RCD Highway

 

Makran Coastal Highway Zero Point

The Uninterrupted Landscape

Al-Hasan Hotel at Hingol River

Entry Pont of Hinglaj Temple

 

A Camel in the Middle of Nowhere

Road to Hinglaj Temple Photo Courtesy Nasreen Ghori

Bridge on the Way to Hinglaj Temple Photo Courtesy Nasreen Ghori

Prepartaion of Festival at Nani Mandir

Inside of the Nani Mandir

Home Cooked Lunch reheated at Al-Hasan Hotel Photo Courtesy Nasreen Ghori

Mikael Enjoying the Tractor Ride after the Incident

Coming Back from the Buzi Pass

14 This is where we Camped - Karachi 249



The Campsite with Cars Visible on the Road



Our Home for a Night

The Sun was about to Set

Darkness was about to meet the Wilderness

Crescent of 4th Muharram

Crab's Hard Work Photo Courtesy Nasreen Ghori

Getting Dark

A Beautiful Morning Photo Courtesy Nasreen Ghori

Sunrise at the Beach

In the Desert, Camels Always Have the First Right of Way!

 

Trip Overview

Days: 17-18 October 2015 Saturday – Sunday

Cars: Suzuki Cultus – 2 adults 2 kids. Suzuki Bolan – 5 Adults 2 kids

Fuel: ~35 litres. 50% with AC (Cultus)

Distance Covered: ~600 km

 

Schedule

Day 1 – October 17, 2015

05:00 Left Home; 0km
08:00 Breakfast at Windar; 85km
08:45 Reached Makran Coast Zero Point; 120km
10:45 Reached Hingol River Bridge – Al-Hasan Hotel; 242km
11:30 Left for Nani Mandir; 257km
13:00 Back to HIngol Bridge – Lunch at Al-Hasan Hotel; 273km
16:00 Resumed the Journey to reach Buzi Pass; 315km
17:30 Reached the Site and Setup Camps – Karachi 249; 332km
19:30 Beach-side Dinner and Stargazing
 

Day 2 – October 18, 2015

05:30 Woke up
06:30 Breakfast
08:30 Left the Beach
11:00 Reached Bismallah Hotel before Zero Point for stopover
13:30 Reached back home – safe and sound Alhmadolillah; 613km
 

Links of My Earlier Makran Coast Blogs

Makran Expeditions: http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/search/label/Makran%20Coastal%20Highway
Survival Tips: http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2012/02/karachi-to-gwadar-survival-tips.html
Great Canyon: http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2012/02/great-canyon.html
Chicken Karhai: http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2010/10/chicken-karhai-on-makran-coastal.html
Karachi to Gwadar and Beyond: http://mozumbus.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/one-road-two-thousand-kilometers-in.html
Day trip to Kund Malir and Rock Formations: http://mozumbus.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/makran-coastal-highway-day-trip-till.html

The Great Canyon

Cruising Through The Great Canyon

(Also appeared in the News International's Blog)

Only two hundred and fifty paved kilometers from the bourgeoning Karachi located a stretch of recently unlocked land that stands high above an unending maze of intricate ravines. Sneaking through tall cliffs these gorges produce a distinct geographical formation; the ‘canyon’ in travelers’ jargon.

The breathtaking setting only became publicly known after the construction of Makran Coastal Highway – the 650 km freeway – in 2004 and is rapidly gaining popularity among adventure type Karachites. The sight is so overwhelming that even a ‘round the world’ road traveler cannot watch that without a wide open mouth!

The road sign there suggests that this patch of the highway is known as the Buzi Pass which is actually a tortuous territory in the otherwise smooth road.

The belief that the army of Alexander suffered an unprecedented loss while crossing through the 1500 feet high pass differentiates the canyon from the rest of the global league. Memory of the ancient conqueror coupled with the enormity of the setting arguably makes it the greatest of all known canyons. The Great Canyon!

Wonder why the army of Alexander the Great trapped here!?

The then world’s largest army was puzzled, ambushed, and crushed by the foray of a handful of indigenous mountaineers who could even seep into the cracks between unmapped gullies after hunting their bamboozled prey from atop! A lesson indeed from the dusted chronicles of history which no superpower ever liked to learn the secondhand!

Standing in front of the unending backdrop, one can visualize the lethal fight between the time-tested Greek warriors and their agile enemy! On the other hand, driving besides the deadly labyrinth – or a sliced plateau – is an experience which cannot be expressed in words.

Can You Spot Those Miniature Trucks?

For those who are untouched by the landscape eulogy and the historical drama there is enough more enroute to get flabbergasted.

A few kilometers ahead of the rocky terrain the freeway kisses the virgin beach of Kund Malir in style making the combination unworldly. This is where the coastal semi desert meets the gradient waters of the Arabian Sea for an eye-catching combination of the golden yellow, soothing green, and the deep blue. A Designer Beach, if expressed in the tweaked metrosexual lingo!

The peaceful coastal line provides an ideal sunbathing opportunity to the white seagulls which flock in during winters from the cold North in thousands. A treat for Baywatch lovers!

Virgin Beach of Kund Malir

The climax is yet to reach as there is some food for thought for the superstitious souls also! In between the idyllic beach and the twisted mountain pass there are some interesting rock formations allegedly carved by the ocean breeze! Deftly chiseled, some of the shapes are so convincing that even the most rational of the minds will not help nail-biting. Even if one overlooks the castle like formations, the lion shaped rock is literally mind-boggling. Impossible to believe that the high standing statue – which resembles the Great Sphinx of Giza – is carved merely by the passing wind and not by an adroit craftsperson!

Sphinx!?

Princess of Hope

This tranquil setting is situated just four hours away from the noisy metropolitan and can be done as a long daytrip if timed with the sunrise. For Top Gear lovers the pleasant drive is a bonus as the smooth road, thin traffic, and no troopers only come in dreams.

Unfortunately, roadside facilities are almost non-existent so loading basic necessities, most importantly water, would be a good idea. On the flipside, lack of infrastructure might be a good tradeoff for the adventurous kind who would otherwise feel intrigued by the tourist influx. Refueling is better done before embarking on the journey especially if one is concerned about the bootlegged variant of the neighborhood fuel.

In fact, the escape was a game finisher for my American cousins who were visiting the ‘homeland’ for the winter break. Their Grand Canyon tales would now become a chapter of the history, believe me not!

Trip Report: Cruising through the Great Canyon

The Great Canyon! Isn't It?

Last month I got yet another opportunity to drive through the magnificent Makran Coastal Highway. This time it was with my old time University fellows. Since we planned for a Day Trip only so we decided to drive till the picturesque Buzi Pass, around 250 km from Karachi. In fact it was the first time for the rest of the troupe so I had to play the guide role also!

The journey went smooth as per the plans Alhmdolillah. We started off from Karachi even before the sunrise and took a sojourn at Hub for prayers and refueling. After which we drove non-stop till the Hingol River Bridge to have a fulfilling brunch with karak chai at Al-Hasan Hotel.

Both RCD highway and the Makran Coastal Highway are in reasonably good condition. Since it was Sunday morning, so we experienced very thin commercial traffic on the Quetta bound road which was a much relief actually.


Nothing has changed on the Coastal highway since my last journey a year back except for the completion of the under construction bridge before Agore built on the patch of the highway that disappeared due to floods years back.

Past Hingol Bridge it was all beauty as expected. Friends were awestruck in fact. Subhanallahe Wabihamdehi Subhanallahel Azeem!


سبحان الله و بحمدہ سبحان الله ا لعظیم

It took us around four hours, including the enroute stops, to reach to the height of the wilderness, i.e. to the 1500 feet high Buzi Pass.

We saw the Pass and the adjacent canyon in the full sunlight and under clear skies, a great experience indeed. After the trip I was thinking of naming this gorgeous canyon and decided to call it the Great Canyon from now. This title will also remind how the army of the Alexander the Great suffered in those torturous ravines while coming back from the Indian Campaign!

Smell of something burning was in the air. As a Karachite, my riot-censors were about to wake up until I realized that this is coming out of the break-shoes of the passing trailers loaded with fertilizer they picked from Gwadar. A truck wala was in fact busy in managing his vehicle from one hand while capturing the shots of his life with the help of his mobile camera from the other!

We then backtracked to the Rock Formations for another Photo Session. Both Sphinx and the Princess of Hope are just mind boggling. Even after visiting so many times my mind cannot believe that this is just carved by the passing winds! I noticed a change there this time. A triangular flag – akin to what one can find outside shrines and temples – was wavering besides the Princess of Hope signboard.

A similar kind of flag is also mounted near the Kund Malir beach also which we touched on the way back.

The beach was picture perfect and the calm waters were too tempting so we parked the car off the road for some quick splashes. A local has setup a small grocery kiosk there for the rare picnickers. I was offered a cup of tea by the hospitable Makrani fishermen chitchatting with each other. One of them tried to scare me by telling that there are cannibals living in the mountains. Maybe he is right, the area is still least explored!

At around 2 we got packed up in the car again for the return journey halfway through which we met a desert storm developed due to hot and dry conditions. That continued for about half an hour effectively reducing our speed however we managed to reach back Karachi safe and sound just before the sunset, Alhmdolillah!

Here are the timelines of the Day Trip:

0600 Left Karachi

0630 Reached Hub. Fajr Prayers and Refueling.

0815 Zero Point Makran Coastal Highway

1000 Reached Hingol River Bridge. Brunch at Al-Hasan Hotel

1100 Reached Buzi Pass. Photo Session of the Great Canyon before backtracking.

1200 Rock Formations. Photo Session of the Princess of Hope and the Sphiix

1300 Kund Malir Beach

1400 Return Journey started

1600 Reached RCD Highway Junction (Zero Point). Tea Break

1800 Back Home

We were four guys in Tariq’s Mehran which gave excellent mileage for the 550 km journey. Around 25 litres of petrol and 10 kg of CNG was enough for the long drive.

Now enjoy the select photographs courtesy Umer and others:

Zero Point - the Junction between the RCD Highway and the Makran Coastal Highway

Time Starts Now!

Colors of Pakistan

The Road to the Wilderness

Journey Continues

The Chilli Effect

The Slope

Local Life

Kund Malir

Life Along the Coast

The Virgin Beach

Always Expect a Sharp Turn

Under Construction

Cruising through the Great Canyon

Wonder Why the Alexander's Army Got Trapped Here!?

This is What Makes it Great

Sandy

The Beautiful Coastal Highway

An Inhabitant

Matching Colors

Hingol National Park

The Sphinx of Makran

Princess of Hope

or the Princess of Wilderness?

Anyways, it is Just Mind Boggling

Carved by Winds. Really!?

Peace

The Temple of Unknown Goddess!

We Hit the Sandstorm on Our Way Back

Back to the Zero Point

Smuggling or What?