Muzzammil's Travels: National Highway

Showing posts with label National Highway. Show all posts

Friday, February 8, 2019

Karachi to Rann of Kutch, Pakistan-India Border, near Nagarparkar, Thar Desert

Indian Border Fence Overlooking the Rann of Kutch near Nagarparkar, Thar Desert

Destination

Pakistan-India Border at Choorio Village, Thar Desert, overlooking the Rann of Kutch on the Indian Side which is also called White Desert, 40km from Nagarparkar, 500km from Karachi

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Rann_of_Kutch

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thar_Desert

The Great Rann of Kutch
Also called White Desert, the Great Rann of Kucth, a huge saline marshland mostly located in India, is said to be world's largest salt desert. It stretches between the mouth of River Indus, in Pakistan, to the Gulf of Kutch (Arabian Sea), in India.

Nagarparkar is at the confluence of Rann of Kutch and Thar Desert, which is also called the Great Indian Desert.

Trip Duration: 3 days

February 2 Karachi-Nagarparkar

February 3 Nagarparkar-Border-Nagarparkar

February 4 Nagarparkar-Karachi

A View from Choorio Temple Top, Confluence of Thar Desert on Pakistan Side and Rann of Kutch marshalnds on the Indian Side

Feel of the Desert, Between Badin and Mithi, Thar, Sindh

Saturday, February 2, 2019

06:30 Left Karachi. Sunrise on Karachi-Makli National Highway.

08:30 Breakfast, past Sajawal at a roadside “Quetta” hotel.

09:30 Resumed the journey towards Badin and Mithi.

10:00 Entered Tharparkar District from Badin

11:00 Reached Mithi, roamed around the city and visited a recently constructed charity hospital.

12:30 Lunch break at a dhaba, off the main road in the vicinity of Thar Coal Mines.

13:30 Resumed for the last leg.

15:30 Reached Nagarprakar, got settled. Offered Zhuar Asar qasar prayers.

17:00 Visited the nearby Kasbo village, back to Nagarparkar by 19:00 and called it a day after having dinner.

Sunday, February 3, 2019

06:30 Short hiking and trekking on Nagarparkar's Kanjhoro Village till Sardhoro temple.

09:30 Breakfast

11:00 Left for Choorio temple at Pakistan-India border, 40km from Nagarparkar, In the hired 4x4, Ramesh 03412267900 (Recommended).

12:30 Reached Choorio Village and climbed the Jog Maya Mandir Rocks overlooking India-Pakistan border fence with views of the White Desert; the Great Rann of Kutch.

15:00 Left Choorio village and returned to Nagarparkar by 16:30. Skipped today’s lunch as per the plan.

17:00 Roamed around Nagarparkar Bazaar. Had roadside pakoray and tea.

19:00 Dinner. Packed for early morning return journey next day.

Monday, February 4, 2019

07:00 Left Nagarparkar

09:00 Breakfast at Mithi bypass. 09:45 resumed the journey

12:00 Tea break before Sajawal. Skipped the lunch as per the plan

15:30 Back to Karachi Alhamdolillah

Courtesy: Dr. Zeeshan for kind arrangements

(Above timings are approximate)

Started the Journey Early Morning: Sunrise at Karachi-Makli Section of National Highway

Breakfast Break at a Roadside "Quetta" Hotel After Crossing Sajawal Bypass

Finding a Clean Toilet, Even if Basic, is a Major Challenge while Travelling around Pakistan

A Rundown Sunflower Field Near Badin

Thar Desert Starts No:w Badin-Mithi Road, Tharparkar, Sindh

Police Check-post at Tharparkar Entrance

Probably Some Kind of Desi Coal Processing (?) at Tharparkar Entrance

Heading Straight Towards Mithi Instead of Going via Diplo in the South

Junction Connecting Naukut and Badin to Mithi Road

Nagarparkar's Kanjhoro Hills Around Sunset

Hired 4x4 from Ramesh (Recommended) to visit India-Pakistan border at Choorio Village, 40km from Nagarparkar, Phone: 03412267900, Rate: Rs. 3000-4000 Round Trip

Uphill Jog Maya Mandir Entrance, Choorio Village at Pakistan India Border, 40km from Nagarparkar

Lions at the Entrance of Jog Maya Mandir Choorio Village at Pakistan India Border, 40km from Nagarparkar, 500km from Karachi

Lion Statue with Pigeons at Jog Maya Mandir, Thar Desert

Water, Sacred (spelling intended) Resource around Thar Desert, at Mandir Jog Maya, Goth Choorio

Relaxing at Mandir Top Overlooking Rann of Kutch on the Indian Side (Far End Near the Horizon)

Water Pumping Motor at Jog Maya Mandir

Group of Local Kids at Choorio Village, Nagarparkar, Thar Desert

Government Boys Primary School (Main), Nagarparkar Town

Thar's Development Story: A Journey from Obsolete Kekra to Modern Chingchi (Sarcasm Intended)

Street Food: Seasonal Carrot Halwa at Nagarparkar Bazaar (I Couldn't Dare It!)

Street Food: Had Tea from this Nagarparkar Bazaar Roadside Hindu Vendor, Who Reconfirmed If We Were Fine Having His Tea Being Muslims

While Driving on Thar Roads, Please be Watchful of Cattle - Goats, Sheep, Cows, and Camels.

Road Condition: 450km Karachi-Nagarparkar

Karachi to Nagarparkar road has not only improved a great deal, as compared to when I last visited in 2013, but the shorter route through Badin is also fully functional now, courtesy full swing development work at Thar Coal Mines near Islamkot city. The new route has cut down the travel time by 2-3 hours from the previously preferred, but longer, route through Hyderabad, Mirpur Khas, and Nuakot.

Karachi-Maklli-Sajawal-Badin

We first took Karachi-Makli National Highway and turned right just before Makli city, through bypass, towards Sajawal and Badin. This part of the National Highway, ~100km, and beyond, is recently renovated as a dual carriage and has thus transformed into an excellent drive.

The single carriage Makli-Sajawal-Badin road, a little over 100km, is also in good shape with bypasses circumventing most of the enroute bigger towns and cities, making it a comfortable drive.

Badin-Mithi-Islamkot-Nagarparkar

Badin-Mithi is another 100km or so single carriage pleasant drive, which meets the Mirpurkhas-Naukot-Mithi road near Mithi. The smooth road then passes through Islamkot town before crossing Thar Coal Mines Turn, named Engro Morr, 50km from Mithi.

After crossing Engor Morr, the road towards Nagarparkar, another 80km, gets worse, with potholes and withered sides, making it not only uncomfortable but also risky to drive. Hope this part of the indigenous local population will also get some fruits of development in the near future.

Overall, it was a good driving experience and took 9 hours, in total, one way. with a couple of extended stops. On the return, it took around 8 hours due to brief stops, which is conveniently and safely doable without over-speeding.

Nagarparkar to India-Pakistan Border (Choorio Village)
The visit to India-Pakistan border till Jog Maya Mandir at Choorio Village is possible through 4x4, which can be hired from Nagarparkar Bazaar. We went with Ramesh, 03412267900 and paid him Rs. 3,000. Recommended. It was one and a half hour tough ride, as compared to Karachi-Nagarparkar pleasant drive. It can get really hot during the day so keeping drinking water, which is scarce there, will be wise. Round trip will cost around Rs. 3000-4000.

Caution: Cattle Crossing

Cattle crossing - sheep, goats, cows, and camels - is a common occurrence around Thar roads and require driver vigilance. A friend who recently visited Nagarparkar with a group met an accident, in the night, when their hi-ace windscreen smashed with the head of peeking camel. So night driving is not recommended in this area. Another fellow traveler also reported hitting a sheep, in the daylight, thankfully without any damage.

Drinking Water: Keeping water for a desert trip cannot be overemphasized. Although we also tried the enroute water wells for experience.

Weather: November to March is the preferred season to visit Thar keeping in view the harsh climate in summers. It was perfect weather when we visited (February 2019) with cold breeze and pleasantly warm around noon.

Earlier Visits
It was my third Thar visit and second journey to Nagarparkar. Below are the reports from earlier trips:
Nagarparkar First Visit (March 2013): http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2013/03/karachi-nagarparkar-road-trip-thar.html
Umerkot (November 2011): http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2011/11/peek-in-thar-desert-two-days-in-umerkot.html

Friday, January 26, 2018

Authentic Pakistan: Tea and Chicken Karhai at Quetta Hotel

A Typical Quetta Tea Hotel on National Highway

Quetta Tea Hotels are not to be confused; they are not limited to Quetta but can be found anywhere in Pakistan. They are impossible to ignore, especially in Karachi, or on Highways.

Their specialty is fresh strong tea, which is so good and addictive that some people believe that "something" is mixed. Bhang (cannabis), or something like that. But I don't believe in such conspiracy theories! Interestingly, although these ubiquitous hotels are not part of any franchise yet almost all of them have similar attributes, including taste, just like a modern day brand.

I took these photos while traveling to Makli Necropolis, a UNESCO heritage site located near Karachi, with a visiting cousin. We wanted to have tea and fortunately found this hotel, with the enthusiastic "ustaad", on the main National Highway, just before Makli.

Here goes some more tea photos with trademark "parathas":

Parathas at Quetta Hotel are a Great Combination with their Strong Tea

Tea Tasting: "Ustaad" is making sure that the tea is having right quantities of milk, tea, and sugar!

Tea in the Making

Below is Chicken Karhai served with oven-hot whole-wheat Bread:

Fresh Chicken Karhai

One Type of Pakistani Roti

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Food Travel: Tando Adam Sajji

Sajji in the Making!

Last week, I got the opportunity to visit Tando Adam, a small town in Sind. It was my first time there and the sole reason of making this 400+ km round trip from Karachi was Mutton Sajji; the pearl of Pakistan’s rich culinary heritage!

We left Karachi at around 11am and reached Tando Adam just before 2pm. The route was pretty straightforward and the journey was eventless. First we took the Karachi – Hyderabad Super Highway, then continued onto the National Highway, N-5, and then finally turned right on the Odero Lal Road. Somewhere around halfway we stopped for tea at a truck stand.

View Larger Map

After hitting the destination we headed straight to one of the nonchalant Sajji vendors where a number of mutton legs along with a few sirloins (which is called “puth” in Urdu) were geometrically set around the wooden fire. As per the aged old tradition the meat was pierced vertically in sticks pinned on a soil heap. Interestingly, those sticks were wooden, instead of the iron rods used around Karachi’s Sajji vendors, and might be the reason of the difference in taste.

Although Tando Adam is situated in Sindh, and not in Balochistan where the cuisine originally belongs to, however, the town is famous for Sajji, hinting the presence of Baloch tribes migrated southwards over the course of the history.

Sajji is distinctive from other food varieties found in Pakistan because it is prepared without any spices or at times with no additives at all. Slow cooking is the secret of this business and it is best done with mutton using its own fat. The wooden fire first heats up the soil heap heat of which slow-cooks the meat. In all, it takes around 3-4 hours to fully cook a big piece of meat. This is why Sajji vendors start preparations from the morning and then keep the sticks moving to and fro from the fire.

We ordered a “puth” and then waited around half an hour for the food to get ready. In fact Shahid, our host for this trip, telephoned the Sajji-wala when we were having tea break; otherwise it could have taken more time.

While the food was in the making I bought a kilogram of fresh oranges from a street vendor. In the interior Sindh, oranges are sold by weight and not in dozens as the case in Karachi!

Interestingly, the Sajji shop was simpler than I expected. Firstly, it only sells Sajji, i.e. not even essentials like roti, raita, salad, etc! Thankfully, the waiter can do the errand, or maybe that was because of Shahid, otherwise we would have been running around the small bazaar for that! Sitting arrangement was also very basic, consisted of worn-out plastic chairs, and could have been much better, or traditional at-least.

Even then my expectations were high as I heard a lot about the jaunt and the joint from my Sindhi friends. Amid these thoughts and random discussions came the food. For next few minutes it was complete silence, as if the world had stopped for us. It matched the high expectations, and if that mouth-watering aroma is also included then it well exceeded all my gastronomical desires. For mutton lovers no treat can beat that meat!

In addition to the taste, food quality was also exceptional. It was not only farm fresh but also perfectly done; enhancing the taste to the fullest on one hand while keeping it succulent to the core on the other. While doing justice with the delight, Shahid enlightened us that part reason of that rich flavor was the use of a special breed of goat which is called “Kamoro” in the local language. Overall, it was really satisfying, fully worth the long trip.

Making of this cuisine is an art indeed, beauty of which lies in the simplistic and primitive style of cooking. Actually this is a family of chefs who is keeping this unique culinary heritage alive in Tando Adam. And by the time we finished, the narrow street started clogging with connoisseurs from far and near depicting the acknowledgement of their talent. In my opinion, keeping the tradition alive in this rapidly changing environment is no less an achievement and these food artisans deserve due recognition on the national level.

On the way back, Shahid took us to his family farm to elongate his generous hospitality, which itself needs a separate blog!

We returned back to Karachi with stiffed bellies around 7pm, Alhamdolillah!

Thursday, November 21, 2013

Revisit: Freshwater Ponds of Ranikot

Ranikot - A Cool Day Escape from Karachi

Located ~ 250km from Karachi, Ranikot is termed as the largest fort in the world and the second longest wall after the Great Wall of China. However, neither of these facts was the reason why I visited the place for the second time!

During thefirst Ranikot expedition, courtesy my inspiring friend Haris Mehmood, we explored and trekked along the freshwater stream running inside the fortification. This watercourse, which emanates from the Kirthar Mountains, casts an interesting greenish contrast to the otherwise monotonous landscape, and was the motive behind the repeat visit; this time with the family.

While sitting besides one of the ponds, it feels like you are in Swat Valley! The water is cool and crystalline, the air fresh and unpolluted, the sunlight full of Vitamin D yet comforting, and the sound echoes. The peeping towers high above the surrounding hills also add to the ambiance and give a feeling as if someone is watching you.

However, the climax is still to come; a surprise which makes the place a must-see.

This is Doctor Fish – abundant in these ponds and famous for its body cleansing therapy. The miniature marine variety gently eats up all the dead skin and makes it all fresh, once again!. An experience in its own, for which you might be expected to pay a hefty sum in one of Karachi’s a bourgeois spas!