Showing posts with label Balochistan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Balochistan. Show all posts

Friday, January 18, 2019

City Walk 6: Lyari - Karachi's Most Dangerous Neighborhood (Now Peaceful)

Lyari's Cheel Chowk - Used to be the Icon of Terror
Lyari is the most feared neighborhood in Karachi, if not in the World! So much so that when I was making the Lyari Walk plan, some friends thought its too crazy and even backed out. In the recent past, the locality gained an unwanted publicity as a den of all sort of criminals, from drug peddlers to gangs notorious for kidnapping for ransom.

Lately, life in Lyari has come back to normalcy, courtesy a heavy handed cleanup operation by the law enforcement agencies all around Karachi.

Now the neighborhood could be safely visited and craving to bring back its lost cultural and sporting glory.

Although, Lyari is an integral part of the city and located very close to the downtown, it has a totally distinct vibe from the rest of the metropolitan. The difference is so stark that we looked more like tourists in our city! For almost all of us, a group of around 15 people from random Karachi neighborhoods, it was our first visit of this feared neighborhood.

We started from the breakfast at Cafe Malbari near Baghdadi Police Station, after gathering at the Empress Market, Saddar, at around 7:30 am. It was a sumptuous breakfast with Choora Paratha and Daal Makhni being the main highlights. The cafe is rightfully considered legendary and attracted coverage from the local English press as well: http://images.dawn.com/news/1176249.

After having breakfast, we traversed back to the colorful Baghdadi Street which has got positive coverage in the media recently, courtesy an NGO working for Lyari's image building. A couple of  local lads reminded us to be less intruding in their typical style, which some of us found unfriendly, so after having a quick look we once again stuffed in our cars and headed to Aath Chowk.

We parked our cars at Aath Chowk, and then decided walking towards our main landmark, the most ferocious landmark in Karahci: Cheel Chowk.

The ambiance was peaceful and calm. At no point in time, we felt uncomfortable or threatened. We passed through Chakiwara, huge walled historical graveyards, Benazir Univeristy, Kalakot, and finally made it to the Cheel Chowk, in one piece each, and had a group photo there!

We further walked through Kumhar Para in Nawa Lane and ended the walk at Bakra Peeree.

Abu Bakar Baloch, a journalist belonging to Lyari, was waiting for us at his locality near Bakra Peeree Junction. A friendly and soft spoken person like most Lyari dwellers, Abu Bakar was proud of his Baloch roots especially emphasizing that it was the Irani Baloch lineage which his family holds.

At Bakra Peeree, we decided to hire rikshaws which took us to Dhobi Ghat before dropping us back to Aath Chowk.

We Started with Breakfast at the Legendary Malbari Cafe Besided Joona Masjid


Joona Jama Masjid Lyari
The Colorful Baghdadi Street in Lyari
Lyari's Aath Chowk (8 Way Roundabout)
A Community Center in Lyari
Lyari Has Got Banks But No ATMs!
An Under Construction Religious School in Chakiwara Lyari
Boundary Wall of a Historic Shia Graveyard - Hoosaini Baagh
Stone Work at Graveyard Entrance

Another Gate of Hoosaini Baagh - Note the Script, Gujraati I Believe
Lyari Suffers from Electricity Breakdowns Due to Power Theft
Not For Sale, please
Another Historical Graveyard - We Were Not Allowed Inside
A Decorated Bus
Chassis!
Yellow Stone Entrance
The Old Lyari Degree College
Another Graveyard of Bohri Jamaat
Dawoodi Bohra Graveyard
We Managed to Peek Inside
Gujraati Script!
Getting Closer to Cheel Chowk
Kalakot: Another Feared Name!
Lyari Has Got Rich Sport Heritage
Aik Hee Saf Mein Kharay Ho Gai Mehmoodo Ayaz!
Brave Walkers at Lyaris's Cheel Chowk
The Desi Hospital of Orthopedic Surgery
We Walked Through Kumhaar Muhalla - Clay Potters
Gullak
Clay Work
Cruise Ship
Street Life in Lyari
Lyari Boys
The Real Football!
Writing on the Wall! 
Lyari's Balochistan Connection is Strong
Iranian Lassi in Lyari
Dhobhi Ghaat Around Lyari Express Way
Dhobis Legendary Ghada
Kishti Waali Mosque

Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Dolphin Sighting in Ormara and Volcano Hiking

Little Hikers and Haris Scaling Mud Volcano 
Makran Coastal Highway is a great escape from Karachi; a dream long-drive cutting across a beautiful natural terrain. Last weekend, the opportunity arrived again and we drove all the way to Ormara, ~350 km from Karachi, and stayed there overnight thanks to our lovely friend, Haris Tohid.

Dolphins Sighting 


It was the highlight of the holiday. While boating around the channel in the morning, we noticed dolphins also in addition to usual small fish and preying birds. There were plenty of them showing off their acrobatic skills. Ali was the Lucky Charm and also captured one of those from close. Here she goes:




Hiking on Mud Volcano

Before reaching Ormara, we made a detour to see the active Volcano, called Chandragup, which bubbles out mud, usually gently.

Most of us hiked till the crater testing our fitness in "full noon". Kids outperformed and especially enjoyed the natural slide on the steep descend. I got there, almost, but had to come down due to nausea eventually bringing out the heavy breakfast; chai, paratha, omelettes, etc. which we had at a roadside hotel just before Winder city.


Click here for details of my previous camping night at Mud Volcano 



Chandragup Volcano at Makran Coast Spewing Fresh Mud
Live Crater of Chandragup Mud Volcano
Chilling at Ormara Hammerhead
Sunset at Ormara Hammerhead


Ormara Beach from the Top; Check Out the Rocks
Relaxing after a Long Drive and Hiking
Princess of Hope
Trip to Coastal Highway is Incomplete without Paying Homage to the Princess of Hope
Driving Information
We left Karachi before 8 am, and reached Ormara around 2:30 pm, with enroute stops for breakfast, volcano hiking, and a couple of photo shoots. It was quicker on the way back, ~5 hours, with only one quick stop at the truck hotel located around Hingol River Bridge. There, Al-Hassan Hotel is a good option for fresh meal or tea break.

Makran Coastal Highway is as smooth a drive as it could be. It was conveniently possible to maintain well above 120 km, except for the ~40 km hilly patch between Kund Malir and Buzi Pass. That patch has sharp turns, attention grabbing natural rock carvings including the Princess of Hope and Sphinx like formation, and vast canyon views; so one has to be extra careful especially when emergency facilities are non-existent.

RCD Highway is now very well paved but a busy road demanding a lot of driving attention.

Keeping a can of extra fuel (15-25 liters) is recommended if driving to Ormara, or more if beyond, unless willing to use the suspicious quality smuggled gasoline. Being the last resort, there is one fuel station in Winder city, on the RCD Highway, which sells regulated one.

If you are planning to visit the Makran Coast and need information about traveling conditions, you can write me at muzamil79@gmail.com

Photo Courtesy: Ali, Haris, Hasan, Khurram, and Zeeshan

Nostalgia: It was 2008 when we first visited Oramara, again courtesy Haris. Then we were 5 in 1 car. Population has grown up significantly in the last decade, evident from the latest census results. So this time we were 20 people Mashallah; including spouses and kids, in 5 cars!


Makran Coastal Highway: near Buzi Pass
It was 2008!