Crossing Pakistan by Road: Experiences of a Foreign Traveler

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While planning for Nepal, early this year, I received an email from Flossie, a traveler who intended to cross Pakistan by road, first crossing from China border to the Northern Areas, and then crossing over to Iran from Quetta and Tuftan. The second part, i.e. crossing over to Iran was specially the concern, for which she wanted my word.

Flossie is one of the bravest persons and greatest travelers I have ever come across as traveling through almost whole Pakistan, from China border to Iran border, is not an easy task, let alone for a solo female traveler!

It was our sheer luck that we could even meet her in person, and that too not in Pakistan, but in Nepal! Then I got to know that Pakistan was part of her bigger overland travels; from Hong Kong all the way to London! Wow! Wow!

After she crossed Pakistan-Iran border safely I requested her to share this extraordinary experience for the benefit of future travelers. Now I am taking the liberty to post this here with a big 'hurray' to brave Flossie:

1. How’s the experience of crossing into Iran overland from Pakistan through Quetta and Taftan?

[logistics from Lahore]

- First, I take a train from Pindi to Quetta. It takes me 48 hours as the train delays all the time

[problems in Quetta, NOC, bus ticket, etc]

- I don't have many problems in Quetta. It is very smooth, thanks to the help of my friends.
- I got NOC within 5 hours in the same day. Couchsurfing is possible, just don't let police know about it. Police in Quetta doesn't like tourists staying with locals. Most overlanders stay in Bloom Star Hotel.

- You can't buy bus ticket from any private bus companies even you have NOC due to security issues. You can only charter a taxi(bloom star hotel can arrange it) or take a flight. No other options.
- I can go by bus due to my luck and help from my friends becoz I went with a worshiping group.

[visa]

- You need a reference code to  get the visa. So apply to Iranian toruist agency first, wait for 2 weeks then confirm the code with the embassy,  submit all relevant documents and you will get a visa for a month.
- Lahore consulate saves all the trouble. My friend doesn't need a reference code and she pays it on the spot. Got the visa after 4 days.

[issues at border crossing, language barrier, etc]

- the bus is really long and hot. it is about 12 hours driving in the desert in a non-air con air. The people on the bus didn't like me to go out so they hided me very well.
- for women, cover as much as you can. Dress like locals. 

- there are lots of check posts on the way. Since I blended in very well, I don't have much problems.

2. While planning Pakistan – Iran border crossing what were your concerns, especially as a solo female traveler?

[security issues, Czech girls]

- Pakistan is really safe other than some regions. Political issues can change the situations very quickly. So always seek advice from locals. But one thing, locals always have conflicting opinions so it's very difficult to make decisions. And no much information on the internet. So try talk to travellers. There are not many travellers in the country and you almost know all of them. Use common sense.

[difficulty of logistics]

- bus connection is really good over the whole country. So it's really easy to travel.

3. Any tips on Pakistan – Iran border crossing for future overland travelers?

- if you have money, please FLY! becoz there is not much to see from this part of Pakistan.
- But if you are out of money and you intend to cross overland, please seek help from locals which they know best about the region. Blend in as much as you can. Move as swift and quiet as you can.

- this is a tough journey

- once you cross the iran border, you will have police escort all the way to Bam, Iran.

4. What was the good part of this journey?

- you will meet lots of REAL travellers, bikers on the road. Once you are in Bam (there is only one hotel for overlanders), you will share all experiences there.

5. How’s the experience of China – Pakistan border crossing at Khunjerab?

[all the way to GIlgit, Attabad lake]

- border crossing from China to Pakistan takes some time. The border opens at 11am but I can only leave China at 12:30pm. Customs are rude.
- it will take one day when you reach Hunza. Be ready!

- the best scenery I have ever seen in the world, esp North Pakistan. Truely stunning and wonderful locals. They try to help you every way possible.

- due to my nationality(China and PK are good friends), I received really warm welcome from Pakistanis.

6. How concerned were you and your family before visiting Pakistan?

[Nanga Parbat incident]

- My family are fine with me as I have been travelling for years so they have confidence with me.

7. How much did you spend in Pakistan? What part of the country you liked the most?

[detailed]

- Wowow! difficult question! I don't remember the budget! I spent around 200 euro for the whole month. Pakistan is the cheapest country I have been so far.
- I like Hunza the best due to stunning scenery. I feel like I am in the fairy tale. So I spent 5 days there.
- I also like Islamabad becoz I met a bunch of good friends. Thanks to couchsurfing.

8. Would you recommend other travelers to come to Pakistan?

[areas which are worth exploring]

- Spend more time in North Pakistan if you are into nature. Lahore is also nice with its history and historical buildings.

[were people friendly and hospitable]

- Super!! Angels on Earth

[any issues especially regarding women, harassing, etc]

- Women are well respected in the country. Compared to its neighbouring countries, I feel really safe here. Oh, one thing, don't give your phone number to anyone you JUST know. Becoz they will spread your numbers to their friends and you will have unwanted attention and call all the time.

Accommodation Review: Shalimar Hotel Ziarat and the PTDC Motel

This review is part of our recent Ziarat trip. Details of the trip here 

Transportation Reviews: Karachi-Quetta-Ziarat and back

Must See: Ziarat Residency, Apple Farm, and Tourist Traps

Shalimar Hotel Ziarat from Inside

Shalimar Hotel is not only the major commercial accommodation in Ziarat but it is also the only place which keeps alive round the year even in the harsh winters – when the whole valley puts on the white blanket. Lonely Planet also lists this hotel; both on its printed as well as online versions, but the contact number given in the printed version is obsolete. (New Number: 0833-560353) 

This budget place enjoys good reputation among frequent travelers, both businessmen and tourists, mainly due to the facilities which cannot be found around the rustic hill station. During our recent trip (November 2012), we spent three nights there and found that livable, however, with much room for improvements.

Booking

Since it was the off-season, I did not bother advance booking; however, I did call Zahoor – the hotel manager – before leaving Karachi to make sure if they were open and to enquire about the best commuting options from Karachi. He was responsive, not only on the phone but afterwards also, and guided us well.

PTDC Motel

The other decent accommodation option in Ziarat was PTDC (Pakistan Tourism Development Company) Motel which we would have preferred due to its cleanliness, tranquil environment, and cozy cottages should there have been heating arrangement.

Location

Both Shalimar Hotel and PTDC are on the main Ziarat road but on the opposite corners of the city with former being on the entrance when coming from Quetta. The bus dropped us right in front of the hotel and it took me 10 minutes to negotiate the deal with Zahoor who allotted Room # 15 and Jamshed to us.  On the way back also, the Quetta bound coaster (pre-booked) picked us up from the hotel. We found the hotel conveniently located; close enough to the hustle-bustle that it does not look haunted in a town which gets dead as the sun sets down but not too close to the level of annoyance.

About the Room

The room was spacious with wall sized glass windows on two sides to get maximum sun exposure. On the flip side, it was located far behind which made it inconvenient especially when the intercom system was not functional. The double bed, blankets, and bed sheets were very clean while the carpet floor was grimy and the toilet was too small and rundown. I had to insist to get a bathroom wiper and the carpet was vacuum cleaned only once and that too when we had already spent a night. In order to keep kids away from the rug, I requested an extra mattress which they provided free of charge and without reluctance.

Electricity and Gas

Initially they provided us a slightly faulty gas heater which was replaced the next day. Gas pressure used to get week around sunset for an hour and they had a policy to close the valve at 11pm. Even if they do not disconnect the supply, it is highly advisable to turn the heater off before sleeping, ignoring which may be life threatening. There was two hours of electric load shedding twice a day (7am and 3pm) in addition to the occasional breakdowns during daytime for indefinite hours. During nights also, power disrupted a couple of times but luckily for a few minutes only. Surprisingly, there was no alternate illumination in the room except for the candles which one can get from the staff on demand and our cell phones.

Other Services

Room service was satisfactory and unfussy; we ordered food and tea quite a few times which always reached us without much waiting.  Food quality was also good enough with realistic prices. They have various well maintained conference style dining areas as well on both floors in addition to 16 bedrooms on the first floor out of which only 3-4 were occupied due to offseason. During our stay, there was a meeting of health department which occupied those dining halls.

Staff was easygoing, soft spoken, and well mannered. Security was also good and the overall ambiance was family friendly. Although the room occupancy was low when we visited but the place gets high in demand during spring and summers so advanced booking would be wise during the season.

Overall we found Shalimar Hotel Ziarat recommendable to those visiting the hill station, either with family or friends, except for ones too demanding.

Facilities:

Gas Heater (included)

Hot Running Water (included)

Washing Machine (self use, free of charge)

Iron (self use, free of charge)

Television (only Geo News)

Restaurant

Short Comings:

Broken Intercom System

Rundown Washroom

Unclean Carpet

Room Charges: Rs. 1,200 for the double room 

Shalimar Hotel Ziarat from the Front

Shalimar Hotel Ziarat from the Backside (Room#15 is on the Right Corner)

A View from Inside the Room - Just OK!

Sipping Hot Qahwa in the Room

Do Turn the Gas Heater Before You Sleep

Main Ziarat Road in Front of Shalimar Hotel

Zahoor - the Responsive Manager of Shalimar Hotel Ziarat

Kaleemullah Kakar (front) and Zahoor are Responsible for the Room Service

Shalimar Hotel Ziarat - Conditions

Restaurant of Shalimar Hotel Ziarat with the Inside Family Room

Stairs for the First Floor

One of the Dining Halls on the First Floor (Noticed the Telephone!?)

A Typical Double Bed in Shalimar Hotel Ziarat

Bathrooms can be Improved

Chilling Around Quetta and Ziarat

Hotel Review: Shalimar Hotel and PTDC Motel

Transportation Reviews: Karachi-Quetta-Ziarat and back
Must See: Ziarat Residency, Apple Farm, and Tourist Traps

Golden Apples in an Orchard Near Ziarat

A couple of weeks back when I discussed the idea of visiting Quetta and Ziarat, many friends thought that it would be too risky, or actually crazy, especially with two kids.

Now that we are back to the routine, here is a brief trip report with details to follow in the coming days Inshallah:

Karachi to Ziarat

Initially I thought of making it by car, however, due to security concerns around Khuzdar – which is around half way of the ~850 km run – we switched to Plan B, i.e. public transport. First we took the overnight coach to Quetta and then transferred to the hill-station bound Hi-ace. The overnight coach was very comfortable with business class style seats (Rs. 2,100 per person), however, lack of enroute facilities and ancillary transfers made it strenuous than expected. Door to door, it took us 18 hours from our home to Shalimar Hotel, Ziarat!

Next time, I would give it a try by car and then compare which is less uncomfortable

Al-Aziz Runs Comfortable Overnight Coaches Between Karachi and Quetta - Rs. 2,100

Why Ziarat? 

1. Ziarat is not only the closest hill station from Karachi (still 850km!) but also among few places in the South Pakistan which does not see tourists as aliens!
2. It is one the coldest and driest places in the Subtropical Pakistan and is famous for Juniper Forests, Apple orchards, and Quaid-e-Azam Residency
3. Some people club that with the shopping of supposedly smuggled goods from Quetta which in my opinion is no more than a tourist trap

Why November? 

1. Usually tourists go to Ziarat in summers to beat the heat, however, we chose this part of the year to see the colors of Autmn which most of the 2 million Karachites are not even aware of!
2. Choice of the season also gave us the opportunity to utilize the inventory of warm clothing which usually lies in the attic for years!
3. Just to mention, minimum temperature had already plunged well below zero, however, next time, we would visit around January-February to see the snowfall and to recheck our limits! 

Colors of Autumn: Red, Orange, and Yellow

Sun Peeking from Yellow Leaves

Autumn Arrives in Ziarat

Misha Had Never Put So Many Clothes On!

While Mikael is Annoyed with so Many Layers

Finding Accommodation in Ziarat

There are a number of budget hotels and rest houses, however, only Shalimar Hotel – the only place which opens round the year – and PTDC (Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation) Motel are near to decent. After having an initial look at both, we preferred the former because of the gas heater in the room otherwise the PTDC cottage would have been a far better choice.

For a detailed review of Shalimar Hotel Ziarat and PTDC Motel please click here

Shalimar Hotel Ziarat Survives Even During Harsh Winters

An Alley of Shalimar Hotel Ziarat

Double Rooms in Shalimar Hotel Ziarat: Rs. 1,200

Quaid-e-Azam Residency

After spending a night and acclimatizing, next morning we walked uphill to the antique Quaid-e-Azam Residency. Due to its location, the beautiful and characteristic colonial era structure can easily find its place in the top 10 remnants of the once mighty British Empire!

Quaid-e-Azam Residency Ziarat

Color of Autumn: Quaid-e-Azam Residency Ziarat

Quaid-e-Azam Residency Ziarat Opens 10am - 5pm Execpt for Wednesdays

Day Trip to Kewaas: the Valley of Apples – Courtesy Haris Mahmood

There are numerable valleys around Ziarat which grow fruits like Apple, Cherries, Figs, etc. Though November was too late for the luxurious sight of a fruit laden tree, Abdus Samad Dotani – a resident of Kewaas Valley intentionally left a couple of trees in his orchard for his urban guests. He complained that apple prices lag behind because of the cheap exports from the neighboring Iran.

Apple Orchard in Kewaas Valley Ziarat

Last of the Trees with Seasonal Apples

Apples from Ziarat Attract Good Prices Because of Superior Quality

A Couple of Isolated Fruits

Another One Hanging Alone

Varieties in the Farm

Waste

Food Scene

The Extra Large Oven Hot Bread with Diameter of More than 12 Inches

'Raosh' is a Traditional Mutton Meal Popular in Pustoon Areas

Sheep are a Common Sight and are Used for Dried Meat Called Landi

Back to Routine

After spending 3 chilled nights, we started the backward journey – again overnight – and reached back home well before Fajar! On the way back, Mikael started having loose motions which turned into diarrhea – mainly because of the unavailability of enroute facilities – so badly that we had to rush to the hospital first thing in the morning. Alhamdolillah, he is feeling better now.

Security Concerns:

Ziarat is perfectly safe; a small town with simple people. Ambiance was comparable to Chitral, Gilgit, etc. Major security concern arises while commuting between Karachi and Quetta, however, we took normal precautions mainly to avoid unwanted attraction and did not feel unsafe at any point in time. In Quetta also, it looked business as usual. Interestingly, people there were more concerned about the security situation in Karachi!

A Tractor Trolley Coming Out of Peaceful Ziarat Bazaar

Expenses

Karachi to Quetta: Rs. 4,000 (2 seats in coach - comfortable)
Quetta to Ziarat: Rs. 520 (4 seats in the hiace - still uncomfortable)
Around Ziarat: Rs. 1500 (private car for half day)
Ziarat to Quetta: Rs. 560 (4 seats in the coaster - comfortable than the hiace) 
Quetta to Karachi: Rs. 4,200 (2 seats in coach - very comfortable) 
Rikshaw rides: Rs. 800

Accommodation: Rs. 3,500

Food and other expenses: Rs. 4,000

Total: ~Rs. 20,000

When the Hotel Manager Zahoor paid Attendant Jamshed - who belonged to Zhob - his meager salary out of my bill, I feel satisfied of being a source of income for a fellow Pakistani who lives a hard life in a far flung area.

Other Useful Links
Accommodation Review: Shalimar Hotel Ziarat and the PTDC Motel
Transportation Reviews: Karachi-Quetta-Ziarat and back
Must See: Ziarat Residency, Apple Farm, and Tourist TrapsMy Pre-Trip Post on Pak Wheels
Lonely Planet List of Hotels in Ziarat