Crossing Pakistan by Road: Experiences of a Foreign Traveler

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While planning for Nepal, early this year, I received an email from Flossie, a traveler who intended to cross Pakistan by road, first crossing from China border to the Northern Areas, and then crossing over to Iran from Quetta and Tuftan. The second part, i.e. crossing over to Iran was specially the concern, for which she wanted my word.

Flossie is one of the bravest persons and greatest travelers I have ever come across as traveling through almost whole Pakistan, from China border to Iran border, is not an easy task, let alone for a solo female traveler!

It was our sheer luck that we could even meet her in person, and that too not in Pakistan, but in Nepal! Then I got to know that Pakistan was part of her bigger overland travels; from Hong Kong all the way to London! Wow! Wow!

After she crossed Pakistan-Iran border safely I requested her to share this extraordinary experience for the benefit of future travelers. Now I am taking the liberty to post this here with a big 'hurray' to brave Flossie:

1. How’s the experience of crossing into Iran overland from Pakistan through Quetta and Taftan?

[logistics from Lahore]

- First, I take a train from Pindi to Quetta. It takes me 48 hours as the train delays all the time

[problems in Quetta, NOC, bus ticket, etc]

- I don't have many problems in Quetta. It is very smooth, thanks to the help of my friends.
- I got NOC within 5 hours in the same day. Couchsurfing is possible, just don't let police know about it. Police in Quetta doesn't like tourists staying with locals. Most overlanders stay in Bloom Star Hotel.

- You can't buy bus ticket from any private bus companies even you have NOC due to security issues. You can only charter a taxi(bloom star hotel can arrange it) or take a flight. No other options.
- I can go by bus due to my luck and help from my friends becoz I went with a worshiping group.

[visa]

- You need a reference code to  get the visa. So apply to Iranian toruist agency first, wait for 2 weeks then confirm the code with the embassy,  submit all relevant documents and you will get a visa for a month.
- Lahore consulate saves all the trouble. My friend doesn't need a reference code and she pays it on the spot. Got the visa after 4 days.

[issues at border crossing, language barrier, etc]

- the bus is really long and hot. it is about 12 hours driving in the desert in a non-air con air. The people on the bus didn't like me to go out so they hided me very well.
- for women, cover as much as you can. Dress like locals. 

- there are lots of check posts on the way. Since I blended in very well, I don't have much problems.

2. While planning Pakistan – Iran border crossing what were your concerns, especially as a solo female traveler?

[security issues, Czech girls]

- Pakistan is really safe other than some regions. Political issues can change the situations very quickly. So always seek advice from locals. But one thing, locals always have conflicting opinions so it's very difficult to make decisions. And no much information on the internet. So try talk to travellers. There are not many travellers in the country and you almost know all of them. Use common sense.

[difficulty of logistics]

- bus connection is really good over the whole country. So it's really easy to travel.

3. Any tips on Pakistan – Iran border crossing for future overland travelers?

- if you have money, please FLY! becoz there is not much to see from this part of Pakistan.
- But if you are out of money and you intend to cross overland, please seek help from locals which they know best about the region. Blend in as much as you can. Move as swift and quiet as you can.

- this is a tough journey

- once you cross the iran border, you will have police escort all the way to Bam, Iran.

4. What was the good part of this journey?

- you will meet lots of REAL travellers, bikers on the road. Once you are in Bam (there is only one hotel for overlanders), you will share all experiences there.

5. How’s the experience of China – Pakistan border crossing at Khunjerab?

[all the way to GIlgit, Attabad lake]

- border crossing from China to Pakistan takes some time. The border opens at 11am but I can only leave China at 12:30pm. Customs are rude.
- it will take one day when you reach Hunza. Be ready!

- the best scenery I have ever seen in the world, esp North Pakistan. Truely stunning and wonderful locals. They try to help you every way possible.

- due to my nationality(China and PK are good friends), I received really warm welcome from Pakistanis.

6. How concerned were you and your family before visiting Pakistan?

[Nanga Parbat incident]

- My family are fine with me as I have been travelling for years so they have confidence with me.

7. How much did you spend in Pakistan? What part of the country you liked the most?

[detailed]

- Wowow! difficult question! I don't remember the budget! I spent around 200 euro for the whole month. Pakistan is the cheapest country I have been so far.
- I like Hunza the best due to stunning scenery. I feel like I am in the fairy tale. So I spent 5 days there.
- I also like Islamabad becoz I met a bunch of good friends. Thanks to couchsurfing.

8. Would you recommend other travelers to come to Pakistan?

[areas which are worth exploring]

- Spend more time in North Pakistan if you are into nature. Lahore is also nice with its history and historical buildings.

[were people friendly and hospitable]

- Super!! Angels on Earth

[any issues especially regarding women, harassing, etc]

- Women are well respected in the country. Compared to its neighbouring countries, I feel really safe here. Oh, one thing, don't give your phone number to anyone you JUST know. Becoz they will spread your numbers to their friends and you will have unwanted attention and call all the time.

Round-the-World Honeymooners: Benoit et Marie

Benoit and Marie on Around the World Honeymoon!

Hasan called me with a bit of excitement that a French couple, on their round-the-world-trip by road, is visiting Pakistan and will stay in Karachi for a couple of days and that if I can host them for a night or two. Yes, for sure! I have heard crazy stories of such travelers and wanted to meet one. Actually our European Backpacking trip was initially a “Karachi to London by Road” kind of thing! But after half an hour Hasan called me again to tell that the French have already got a place and we can however meet them the next day for dinner.

Travelers are God's guests!

It was a pleasant surprise to see Benoit et Marie, the French travelers, at the dinner the next day, wearing traditional shalwar kameez with Marie gracefully wearing a scarf. In the local attire they were looking like locals, may be resembling to Pathans because of their fair features!

The next day, after a little pursuance, they agreed to be my guest for a couple of days!

The way to go!

Benoit, 23, et Marie, 22, planned to travel around the world, to around 60 countries, mostly by hitchhiking and started their journey soon after their marriage three months back. Benoit’s father was nice to bear all their marriage expenses while their other relatives reacted positively to their appeal to give them cash as the wedding gift! But that was not enough for two years of traveling so they also had to work in factories as part time workers in addition to their routine jobs.

It was unbelievable that they came to Pakistan all the way from France, by road, crossing through Southern Europe, Eastern Europe, Turkey and Iran! And from Pakistan they will continue to India from where they plan to take a flight to China to continue to Australia through South East Asian countries and then to North and South America! Crazy!!!

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Benoit et Marie were surprised to see normal human beings in Pakistan doing normal things as they do in France. As before coming to the country, they ‘were convinced’ that all Pakistanis carry Kalashnikovs searching for heretical outlaws to refine their shooting skills! Likewise, if you think all the people in the West are promiscuous and materialistic then they are a good example to disprove the notion!

Ready to attend the wedding!

So, change in plan! Initially they wanted to just pass by the country but then they decided to understand the culture, see the street life, taste some local food, and experience the hospitality. And Benoit was excited to attend Ali Ayaz wedding and was very happy wearing the traditional Sherwani. Marie cried at the wedding reception as if her own sister is the bride and leaving her paternal place :--)

The spicy biryani

They tried the food and they will not forget it. Not because they liked the spicy local cuisine but more because they feel Turista almost after every meal. And what is Turista? Leave it!

Some Random Memories

From Quetta to Karachi

The troupe crossed Iran border and entered into Pakistan from Tuftan where they were escorted by a policman till Quetta, where they changed the bus to reach Karachi. And it was neither difficult nor dangerous but a little less comfortable for them! 

Benoit trying the Shalwar the first time!

Trying Falooda at Tariq Road

And the fish at Jamshed Road

They tried and liked local fish also, Mangra finger fish and the famous Surmai, with the Chatni. Benoit could not resist having the delicious crackers (Papar). That was a welcome change for them after days of chicken and rice!

And finally the Turista :(

Benoit after having biryni, gajar ka halwa, falooda, crackers (papar), and samosa for 3 continuous days!

At Moiz place

Benoit talking to journalists in France

Marie, finally connected after five days!

Misha with her French guests

Their portable house

French cake in the baking

To Benoit et Marie (on behalf of family and friends): We love you guys and your travels. It was exciting for us and we believe it must be an experience for you guys. Wish you all the best in your future and Turista-free travel!