7 Countries in 25 Days - Bosnia, Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia, Serbia, Turkey, Qatar

Balkans Loop: Serbia, Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia

Itinerary
Last month, June 2019, we (family of 4) headed to Europe, explored around part of the Balkan Peninsula, mostly ex-Yugoslavia, along with visiting Istanbul and Doha on the way: 

June 8-12 Doha
June 12-17 Istanbul
June 17-20 Serbia
June 20-22 Macedonia
June 22-26 Albania
June 26-29 Montenegro
June 29-2 Bosnia

Some Balkan Countries - 5 to be precise: Serbia, Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, and Bosnia - offer visa free access to those who have valid US visa. We visited the US in 2015 so our 5 Year Multiple Visa was still valid, giving us the opportunity to explore these beautiful places. Interestingly, Turkey also provides the facility of eVisa for US visa holders which we happily availed. And since we took Qatar Airways so it was most appropriate to avail the Visa on Arrival facility which Qatar has only recently started for Pakistani citizens.

Logistics
Balkan Countries are well connected with each other by road. The best way to explore all these countries is to hire a car and drive, but since I am not enthusiastic about driving so we took buses from one country to the other, which was pretty doable, if not too comfortable.

So for us, it was a combination of flights, buses, and taxis for inter-country traveling:
Karachi - Doha - Istanbul: Qatar Airways
Istanbul - Belgrade: Pegasus Airlines
Belgrade - Skopje - Sarande - Podgorica - Sarajevo: Buses/Taxis
Sarajevo - Doha - Karachi: Qatar Airways

Balkan Part 1: Serbia-Macedonia-Albania

We flew into Belgrade from Istanbul, explored around the capital for a day, and then left for the town of Cuprija, where a kind Serbian local Gordana showed around the stunning Serbian countryside including 80 Million Years Old Ice Age Cave Complex which is called Resava.

From Cuprija, we continued Southwards and took bus to the Macdenonian Capital Skopje where we stayed for two nights and explored Matkay Canyon for kayaking, first-time for us. Before the water sports, the same morning, we took cable car ride to the top of the hill within Skopje to have a bird eye-view of the city. 

From Skopje, we wanted to make it to South Albania, to the coastal town of Sarande, located right in front of the Greek Island of Corfu on the Mediterranean. Since direct bus between Skopje-Sarande had to start from July only, in the high season, so we first took the early morning Skopje-Tirana bus. Tirana is the capital of Albania and a regional transportation hub. Rather than going all the way to Tirana we got off the bus after crossing Macedonia-Albania border at a road junction near the town of Rrogozhinë. From there, we tried stopping Sarande bound mini-buses. In the meantime, we saw a minibus going to Vlore, a town on the same coast, hoping that we will find something from there for Sarande. When we reached Vlore, around 2pm, it appeared that there was no more public transport to Sarande for the day, and either we had to wait for the next morning or get a taxi.

We chose the second option, after some tough bargaining, which proved to be a great decision. 125km Vlore-Sarande road runs through the lush green hills with stunning coastal views throughout the journey. In Sarande, we took a break for 4 nights and chilled around the pristine beaches including a day trip to the divine Ksamil beach.

Balkan Part 2: Albania-Montenegro-Bosnia

Sarande, Albania was our farthest destination and the most Southwards. From there, we once again headed to the North, on a different route though to complete the loop.

From Sarande, we took early morning bus to Tirana first. From Tirana we expected to take another bus either to Albania-Montenegro border, or to all the way to Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro. Failing to find an immediate connection, we boarded on the ready minibus to Shkoder, the border town, where we took the taxi to cross the border and to reach Podgorica.

In Podgorcia, we stayed for 3 nights. Explored the coastal town of Kotor and Budva as one day trip, and then on the other day took the mountain train to the town of Bijelo Polje, again as a day trip.

From Montenegro we continued further North through Podgorica-Sarajevo bus, which was pretty straight forward. We reached Sarajevo, dumped our luggage, and took another bus the same evening to the Bosnian countryside to the town of Konjic, a hill station one hour drive from Sarajevo, for white water rafting. We came back to Sarajevo the next day, stayed there for two nights, explored around the rebuilt city, before catching the return flight on 2nd July.

In the coming days, I would like to share details and photos of this interesting journey - schedule permitting. So stay tuned!

Acknowledgement:
Here I would like to thank all the locals and friends we stayed with and those who helped us with precious information about exploring around an uncharted territory for a typical Pakistani traveler.

Crossing Pakistan by Road: Experiences of a Foreign Traveler

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While planning for Nepal, early this year, I received an email from Flossie, a traveler who intended to cross Pakistan by road, first crossing from China border to the Northern Areas, and then crossing over to Iran from Quetta and Tuftan. The second part, i.e. crossing over to Iran was specially the concern, for which she wanted my word.

Flossie is one of the bravest persons and greatest travelers I have ever come across as traveling through almost whole Pakistan, from China border to Iran border, is not an easy task, let alone for a solo female traveler!

It was our sheer luck that we could even meet her in person, and that too not in Pakistan, but in Nepal! Then I got to know that Pakistan was part of her bigger overland travels; from Hong Kong all the way to London! Wow! Wow!

After she crossed Pakistan-Iran border safely I requested her to share this extraordinary experience for the benefit of future travelers. Now I am taking the liberty to post this here with a big 'hurray' to brave Flossie:

1. How’s the experience of crossing into Iran overland from Pakistan through Quetta and Taftan?

[logistics from Lahore]

- First, I take a train from Pindi to Quetta. It takes me 48 hours as the train delays all the time

[problems in Quetta, NOC, bus ticket, etc]

- I don't have many problems in Quetta. It is very smooth, thanks to the help of my friends.
- I got NOC within 5 hours in the same day. Couchsurfing is possible, just don't let police know about it. Police in Quetta doesn't like tourists staying with locals. Most overlanders stay in Bloom Star Hotel.

- You can't buy bus ticket from any private bus companies even you have NOC due to security issues. You can only charter a taxi(bloom star hotel can arrange it) or take a flight. No other options.
- I can go by bus due to my luck and help from my friends becoz I went with a worshiping group.

[visa]

- You need a reference code to  get the visa. So apply to Iranian toruist agency first, wait for 2 weeks then confirm the code with the embassy,  submit all relevant documents and you will get a visa for a month.
- Lahore consulate saves all the trouble. My friend doesn't need a reference code and she pays it on the spot. Got the visa after 4 days.

[issues at border crossing, language barrier, etc]

- the bus is really long and hot. it is about 12 hours driving in the desert in a non-air con air. The people on the bus didn't like me to go out so they hided me very well.
- for women, cover as much as you can. Dress like locals. 

- there are lots of check posts on the way. Since I blended in very well, I don't have much problems.

2. While planning Pakistan – Iran border crossing what were your concerns, especially as a solo female traveler?

[security issues, Czech girls]

- Pakistan is really safe other than some regions. Political issues can change the situations very quickly. So always seek advice from locals. But one thing, locals always have conflicting opinions so it's very difficult to make decisions. And no much information on the internet. So try talk to travellers. There are not many travellers in the country and you almost know all of them. Use common sense.

[difficulty of logistics]

- bus connection is really good over the whole country. So it's really easy to travel.

3. Any tips on Pakistan – Iran border crossing for future overland travelers?

- if you have money, please FLY! becoz there is not much to see from this part of Pakistan.
- But if you are out of money and you intend to cross overland, please seek help from locals which they know best about the region. Blend in as much as you can. Move as swift and quiet as you can.

- this is a tough journey

- once you cross the iran border, you will have police escort all the way to Bam, Iran.

4. What was the good part of this journey?

- you will meet lots of REAL travellers, bikers on the road. Once you are in Bam (there is only one hotel for overlanders), you will share all experiences there.

5. How’s the experience of China – Pakistan border crossing at Khunjerab?

[all the way to GIlgit, Attabad lake]

- border crossing from China to Pakistan takes some time. The border opens at 11am but I can only leave China at 12:30pm. Customs are rude.
- it will take one day when you reach Hunza. Be ready!

- the best scenery I have ever seen in the world, esp North Pakistan. Truely stunning and wonderful locals. They try to help you every way possible.

- due to my nationality(China and PK are good friends), I received really warm welcome from Pakistanis.

6. How concerned were you and your family before visiting Pakistan?

[Nanga Parbat incident]

- My family are fine with me as I have been travelling for years so they have confidence with me.

7. How much did you spend in Pakistan? What part of the country you liked the most?

[detailed]

- Wowow! difficult question! I don't remember the budget! I spent around 200 euro for the whole month. Pakistan is the cheapest country I have been so far.
- I like Hunza the best due to stunning scenery. I feel like I am in the fairy tale. So I spent 5 days there.
- I also like Islamabad becoz I met a bunch of good friends. Thanks to couchsurfing.

8. Would you recommend other travelers to come to Pakistan?

[areas which are worth exploring]

- Spend more time in North Pakistan if you are into nature. Lahore is also nice with its history and historical buildings.

[were people friendly and hospitable]

- Super!! Angels on Earth

[any issues especially regarding women, harassing, etc]

- Women are well respected in the country. Compared to its neighbouring countries, I feel really safe here. Oh, one thing, don't give your phone number to anyone you JUST know. Becoz they will spread your numbers to their friends and you will have unwanted attention and call all the time.

Karachi to Quetta-Ziarat Transportation Guide

This review is part of our recent Ziarat trip. Details of the trip here 

Hotel Review: Shalimar Hotel and PTDC Motel

Must See: Ziarat Residency, Apple Farm, and Tourist Traps

Al-Aziz Runs Comfortable Overnight Coaches between Karachi and Quetta - Rs. 2,100

This month we (family of 4) visited the hill station to enjoy the color of autumn and to utilize our long unused inventory of warm clothing. Initially, I planned to go by car but friends suggested otherwise due to the reported security situation especially around Khuzdar, which is halfway between Karachi and Ziarat on the RCD Highway, so we switched to Plan B, i.e. public transport.

Here goes a brief review of our experience on the road:

No Direct Transport between Karachi and Ziarat

There is no direct public transport from Karachi to Ziarat therefore one has to take a break in Quetta and then transfer to the Ziarat bound hiace/coaster. The transfer can be made immediately, in the earlier part of the day, as there are multiple vans going to the hill station each day.

Karachi to Quetta

For Karachi to Quetta there are many options available; one of the cheapest is the regular coach (Rs. 1,200 pp; twice a day) while the most expensive is Toyota 2.0D taxi (Rs. 3,500 pp, only in morning). Among those, I opted for the 30 seater 2x1 overnight luxury coach (Rs. 2,100 pp, twice a day) run by Al-Aziz, upon Zahoor’s advice who is the manager of Shalimar Hotel Ziarat.

Al-Aziz Coach

After a little googling I found Al-Aziz Coach contact numbers and booked our seats via phone a day before the journey. The coach had to depart at 7pm from Yousuf Goth Terminal, on the Hub River Road, which is way out of the city; however, they provided the shuttle service from their office located near Hassan Square, where we had to reach at 5:30pm to pay for the tickets and to catch the shuttle at 6pm. We did exactly that

Shuttle Service

The shuttle service was a bit uncomfortable and a little late too but not too annoying for the 45 minutes ride. We transferred to the big coach which left the Quetta bound terminal half an hour late as it had to wait for some confirmed passengers who were reportedly stuck up in the city traffic.

Journey Starts

Bus looked new with business class style seats; fully reclining and comfy. Most of the passengers were families with some having kids too. Lights were turned off after 15 minutes and the whole bus went into hibernation, except for the driver off course! There were 5-6 empty seats when we started the journey, which became a nuisance as the staff filled them up enroute with discounted passengers!

After two and a half hours, around 10pm, the bus took a stopover at Bela at a designated restaurant which was selling bad quality food in a disgusting environment. Surprisingly, the stopover on the way back, at Khuzdar, was much better with reasonable facilities.

Al-Aziz Coach Office at Hassan Square

Al-Aziz Coach Runs Shuttle Service Between Hassan Square and Yousuf Goth Terminal

Al-Aziz Coach Yousuf Goth Terminal on Hub River Road - Located Inconvenientl

Al-Aziz Caoch has 2x1 Comfy Seating

We Reached Quetta Before the Sunrise

Quetta to Ziarat

We reached Quetta around the sunrise and promptly took a rikshaw to the Ziarat bound bus station located at Spinzai Road. For Ziarat, I wanted to buy tickets in the coaster, rather than in the hiace, for the sake of comfort, however, I could not find the office of Kakar Transport.

When we reached the hiace stand, at around 7am, there was a van standing stuffed up with passengers and still selling seats. Touts there tried hard to convince me to get onboard but I insisted on the next van for better seating.

For Ziarat, I bought 4 seats, instead of 2, in the middle of the van to make the onward journey less uncomfortable. Next van departed at 8am, reached the hill station around 10:30 am, and dropped us right in front of Shlimar Hotel. http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2012/11/shalimar-hotel-ziarat-and-ptdc-motel.html

In all, it took us around 18 hours, door to door!

Return Journey

Return journey was quicker and took 16 hours door to door. From Ziarat, I pre-booked 4 seats in the Kakar Transport’s coaster, which picked us up right from our accommodation at 2:10pm, a bit late than the given time.

We reached back Quetta before 5pm and took the rickshaw to Al-Aziz Coach Terminal at Saryab Road. Interestingly, we forgot to pick Mikael’s stroller while leaving the hotel but luckily there was another hiace following the coaster which picked that and brought it to Quetta, just in time!

There I made a mistake! Rather than booking the return seats in the Karachi coach – when we reached Quetta from Karachi – I thought doing it later via phone, which did not prove wise as the staff was very reluctant in making reservation on phone. Thankfully, the mistake did not turn into a trouble.

Coach left the terminal around 6:15 pm; again a few minutes late, however, it was full this time. It reached Khuzdar at around 10pm and took stopover for dinner. The hotel there was very reasonable with clean toilet facilities.

Finally we reached back Karachi Saddar at 5:30am where I took a rickshaw and reached back home safe and sound Alhamdulillah around 6am!

Kakar Transport Runs Coaster Between Quetta and Ziarat

A Fruit Laden Truck on the Highway

Mud Houses Between Ziarat and Quetta

Al-Aziz Coach Terminal at Saryab Road Quetta

Expense Sheet

Home to Hassan Square Rickshaw: Rs. 200

Karachi – Quetta Coach: Rs. 4,000 (2 seats)

Quetta Rickshaw: Rs. 100

Quetta – Ziarat: Rs. 520 (4 seats)

Ziarat – Quetta: Rs. 560 (4 seats)

Quetta Rickshaw: Rs. 200

Quetta – Karachi: Rs. 4,200

Saddar to Home Rickshaw: Rs. 300

Contact Numbers – Al-Aziz Coach Quetta

Hassan Square Karachi: (021) 34945778 – Saleem

Saryab Road Quetta: (081) 2450607 – Naseebullah

Contact Numbers – Kakar Transport Ziarat

Ziarat: 0333 7057573 – Musa Jaan

Quetta: 0333 7839642

Contact Numbers – Qadri 2.0D  Car Service

Karachi: 0301 2513311

Quetta: 0300 3800383

Lahore: 0302 3846001

Islamabad: 0321 5221057

This review is part of our recent Ziarat trip. Details of the trip here 

Hotel Review: Shalimar Hotel and PTDC Motel

Must See: Ziarat Residency, Apple Farm, and Tourist Traps

Pakistan - the Second Love of a Latvian Backpacker

Artyom, the Red Bag and Karakoram

Artyom Kozmin is a young Latvian traveler who visited Pakistan during his big Asian road trip. He kindly wrote a piece on Pakistan experiences which is produced below (headings and captions are mine):

 

Hello everybody! Sorry for the delay and sorry if my English is not so clear. I will try to do my best!

Idea
First of all I would like to tell about the idea going to this trip around Asia. Sometime ago I’ve read a book about one traveler who managed to hitchhike around the globe in three years having only 300 dollars then he left his home. I’ve realized that I can do something similar. I’m young and have nothing to lose – no job, no wife etc. 

Looking at the map and reading different travel stories on the web, I’ve decided to go overland around Asia because it’s probably the cheapest region in the world. I’ve started in December that’s why I took a cheap flight to Tbilisi, Georgia, thinking that it would be snowy winter in Europe and it’s better to begin somewhere close to Iran.

Route
So! From Caucasus plan was to go to Iran, Pakistan and staying in India for a while as you usually get half year visa. After, somehow, I need to reach South-East Asia (no plan yet), and coming back to Europe via China, Mongolia and big Russia.

Budget
Spent as less money as possible. I try not do more than 5 dollars per day. Hitchhiking and sleeping wherever possible without paying. Using Couchsurfing as well a as great chance to see real life of local people which hosts you. Learn their traditions and culture, hear that they think about their country and government. Couchsurfing is one of the best ways to travel for sure!

Pakistan
I did not know anything about Pakistan before coming here. All I’ve heard was this “Taliban stories”. So I was thinking to cross Pakistan as quick as possible. But as you all know reality sometimes is different from one you see on television. Yes, there are problems, but there is simple life as well in a country with more than 170 million people.

Artyom Roaming Arund Karachi in a Traditional Kurta

After second day in Karachi there I was also using Couchsurfing, Muzzammil brought me to a CS gathering where I’ve met a lot of nice people, who told me what’s going on in Pakistan, which places should I visit etc. I’m happy that I met all these people. Now I knew that Pakistan is all about. After staying in Karachi for a week I went up North to see Karakoram.  On the way I’ve visited Multan, where I played cricket on old main stadium, and Islamabad there I was staying in men dormitory.

Visiting Multan

An Evening at Badshahi Mosque Lahore

Shah Faisal Mosque

Before I’ve reached Pakistan I was hitchhiking all the way, but here everybody told me that it’s quite dangerous in Pak. So I was using public transport all the time. But after staying for two days in a village Jalalabad not far from Gilgit I’ve hitchhiked to Hunza all the way on top of the bus. Never felt so cold in my life. But it was just great! I had probably the best panoramic view of Karakoram!

Karimabad was totally empty. I was the first visitor in the hotel there I stayed since 5 days. But it was something I really needed. Stay in a quiet place hiking every day in the mountains. And the nature in Hunza is out of this world!

A Pakistani Truck

Truck Art

Going to Karakoram Roof-hiking

A View from the Truck Roof

Is This Colder Than Latvia?

On the way back I stayed in Lahore for 4 days. My host had to leave so he just explained there I can find the key from his apartment. So I was totally alone. Every day I went to old city there I was meeting different people on the street who were happy to see tourist in their city. Never had so many invitations for chai in my life!

Traveling in Style
In Iran I was robbed in a very stupid way. I was hitchhiking then it was already dark. All I had was my passport, money and good trekking shoes. Very dangerous mix! And yes, I continued my travel. After couple of days carrying toothbrush and piece of soap I realized that this is a great chance for me to travel with less things as possible. I’ve found a small cotton red bag in Bandar Abbas, and traveled with it till it got damaged. So I bought a used small backpack on flea market in Islamabad. It’s already 2.5 months as I’m “traveling with toothbrush” and it’s just great!

A Funny Experience in Karachi
First of all people who made my Pakistan part better as I could expect. Thanks to everyone I’ve met – from couchsurfers to freaky personalities on the street.

But there was one funny story in Karachi. Walking around the city I went inside one garden with an old mansion in the middle. There was a music video shoot there they saw me and asked if I’d like to participate.  It was fun. Quite good for a second day in Karachi.

Long live Pakistan! 
In the end in Lahore I’ve decided that I should extend my visa and stay for one more month in Pakistan. But as it was Friday and office was closed little bit earlier. So I got late. Eh, what can you do? Bad luck.

I fell in love second time in my life. Now it is Pakistan. And this is the first country about which I can tell for sure – I will come back definitely! Long live Pakistan! 

Artyom Kozmin can be reached at: artyom.kozmin@gmail.com

ONE Road, ~TWO Thousand Kilometers in THREE Days

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After a short day-trip to Rock Formations on Makran Coastal Highway last month, I could not resist and made another plan till Gwadar and beyond.

I was accompanied by a friend Haris; a couple of other friends were also interested but could not join due to other commitments. We planned to leave on Sunday September 19, so I made necessary arrangements on Saturday including arrangement of supplies (food, water, extra fuel, etc) and pre-trip car checkup. We departed around 6:30 in the morning on the scheduled day; first took Northern Bypass from zero point, which actually proved wrong because of heavy traffic, then replenished the CNG cylinder from Hub and Petrol tank from Windar, as per the previous experiences, and took our first major break at Hingol River Bridge for brunch at around 10:30 am.

We than continued till Pasni – bypassing Rock Formations, Kund Malir, and Ormara – and stopped at Pasni Fish Harbor to gather information about Astola Island logistics. At around 5:30 pm, we finally managed to enter into Gwadar city after a journey of around 700 km, and subsequently searched and negotiated for night stay. Early morning, the next day, we visited Zaver Pearl Continental and Gwadar Fish Harbor, and then embarked for Jiwani. On our way, we were struck by a pleasant surprise by the roadside milestone, which showed distance from Pak Iran border in addition to that of Jiwani. That was real good news for us and that too in the wilderness, as I was not expecting a highway type road till Iran border.

We returned back to Gwadar before sunset.

Next morning we started our journey back home after replenishing both, our car’s fuel tank and ours. Instead of bypassing Pasni, as per the morning’s plan, we decided to give Astola Island a second chance, but only to gather further information about the voyage. We took brief stops at Rock Formations and Malir Kund beach first and then went off the highway to follow Hinglaj Yatra. Luckily, the water in the stream was not enough to halt our car, so we made all the way to Mandir by car, and luckily found a troupe from Karachi to add flavor in our expedition. It was around 6 pm when we rejoined the highway, and due to night driving blues, could only made it to Karachi by around 11 pm.

Pictures and tips will follow in coming days, Inshallah, so stay tuned…

Makran Coastal Highway: Distance from Karachi to Iran Border

While planning my Makran Coastal Highway trips, I could not find much information about exact distances between cities and other attractions along the highway, so I thought to mark them myself during my trips in August and September (2010), and here it goes:

(All distances are calculated from Hub Toll, for the sake of uniformity, which is 40-50 km from Karachi depending on the route and point of departure)

km    Milestone

000   Hub Toll

002   RCD CNG (adjacent to PSO pump) - Last chance

006   Hub Check Post (Motor Registration Certificate + CNIC)
035   Gadani Check Post (Motor Registration Certificate)

053   Petrol Pump at Windar (last chance for Pakistani petrol)

088   Makran Coastal Highway Starts
099   Lasbella Levies Check Post (Motor Registration Certificate + License)

164   Bad Patch (bridge under construction - stay on the road)

190   Tyre Shop (second one after MCH zero point)

216   Nani Mandir (Hinglaj) Sign - further 15 km off-highway

216   Hingol River Bridge 

216   Roadside Hotel - reasonable for tea and meals

225   Kund Malir 

243   Princess of Hope 

256   Buzi Pass area

335   Ormara Chowk 

374   Road Bump - just before a bridge

502   Pasni Junction 

513   PNS Makran cut 

610   Surbandar cut 

618   Gwadar Junction 

667   Iran Border/Jiwani Junction - Jiwani is 32 km from this point

698   Pak Iran Border 

This is with due credits to my companions who helped me in recording these milestones. Numbers are mostly curtailed down (instead of rounding them off) and are subject to recording and editing errors.

Feedback and queries are welcome.