Wilderness Camping at Chandargup Mud Volcanoes – Balochistan, Pakistan

Chandragup Mud Volcano - Hingol National Park, Balochistan Pakistan

Location: Chandragup Mud Volcanoes, Hingol National Park, off Makran Coastal Highway,Balochistan, Pakistan 

Group: 11 people and 4 cars

Expenses: Shared responsibilities since it was on self-help and not commercial – PKR 1,000-1,500 each

Dates: November 11-12, 2017 Saturday-Sunday

11:00 am Met at HUB. Breakfast: at homes before leaving. Lunch: homemade sandwiches on the go.

12:30 pm Re-assembled at Makran Coastal Highway Zero Point

2:30 pm Reached Mud Volcanoes turn on Makran Coastal Highway.

3:00 pm Reached Chandragup Mud Volcanoes. Link road (5.5km)was in good condition with 2 sand dunes which were partially cleared – enough to crossover. Took the wrong track after the road ended but luckily a local boy on the motorcycle guided us back. Lost one of the cars with two people and

tea/BBQ stuff. Tried locating them but was impossible with no mobile signals. Abandoned the search.

3:30 pm Climbed up the tallest of the volcanic hills. It was live at the top and brimming with molten mud, not hot, from at least two points! Some people did the smaller one also which was not active but more picturesque from the top.

4:30 pm Tea served which we got in the thermos from Hub Hotel meeting point. Did another search for the lost car but no avail again. Started setting up camps.

5:30 pm One of the persons in the lost car showed up from the desert. They tried to continue till the beach and got trapped in the sand. Decided to leave the car there till morning and brought the stuff from there. The sun was already down behind the hill. Another car barely escaped getting into the quicksand as they wanted to have some drifting fun in the enchanting desert. Thankfully, none tried the sand dunes although there were ample opportunities.

6:00 pm Had pre-cooked dinner: Aaloo qeema, chicken karhai, and kulchay. Reheated on LPG cylinder – very slow! But sumptuous!! Zeeshan please convey the gratitude on behalf of the whole group. Had post dinner Tea – the case of too many chefs.

8:00 pm Started BBQ, not that anyone feeling hungry but only to kill the time. Every topic was finished and it was still 8pm! Had star gazing session with occasional view of shooting stars. It was surreal!

12:00 am Moonrise. Got really cold.

6:00 am A big group of Hindu devotees showed up and right away climbed the hill chanting slogans: Jay Maata Ki!

8:00 am Had the full range breakfast after the tea finally got done on the coal rather the failing LPG cylinder. One car left for Karachi after the breakfast. Two remaining cars went to bring the stuck one out. Tow rope didn’t help, wooden planks did! Brewed lassi in the meantime – the yogurt one!

10:00 am Decided to explore another beach, Sapat, taking advantage of a local who showed up expecting tips from the Yatris.

12:00 pm Started the return journey

4:00 pm Back home Alhamdolillah

Makran Coastal Highway - Always A Pleasure Drive

Does that Even Need a Caption? Makran Coastal Highway

Milestone for the above Photo! 

(Almost) Love at First Sight!

A Closer Look: Note the Molten Mud Coming Out from the Edges

From Chandragup Top: The Big Car Parking - which Gets Filled in the Hindu Festival

Live Crater of Chandragup Mud Volcano - Balochistan, Pakistan

It was Hard to Navigate Downhill from the Other Side Due to Pitfalls

Crater of the Smaller and Less Active Volcano is Turning into a Garbage Dump - Unfortunate!

The Smaller, Less Active, but more Picturesque Chandragup with Arabian Sea in the Background

High Altitude Climbers - Pun Intended

Setting-up the Campsite

A Camping Night is Incomplete without BBQ

Sun Rising from the Desert Horizon

Hindu Yatris Flocking to Summit the Revered Chandragup

A Young Yatri Observing Other Pilgrims

Some Yatirs Even Made it from India

The Newly Setup Shiv Mandir at Chandragup Foothill

The Virgin Sapat Beach Behind Sand Dunes

Probably a Dog Skull at Sapat Beach

Family Camping at Kund Malir

Our Beachside Campsite at Hingol

Recently, a friend asked the reason why my travel blog has been quiet for some time. Mikael’s admission to prenursery and me switching the job kept us so busy that I could not even share the Ranikot dash we planned earlier this year with friends’ families and the Ormara leisure retreat we did in May – courtesy a great ex-colleague. 

 

After the adjustment pause, and with the change of weather, came two back to back adventures; first a 2 days family camping at Kund Malir followed by a 3 days ultimate voyage to the Astola Island! (Stay tuned for the enthralling details of the later of the duo)

 

Although we have been to the Makran Coastal Highway a many times, however, a family camping trip had been longtime due and needed someone like the generous Ghori Family for that to become a reality.  

 

It was the wee hours of October 17, 2015 when we (Mikael, Misha, Urooba, and I) left the home. Car’s trunk was stuffed with the required essentials; clothing, water gallon with stand and tap, extra fuel can, snacks and juices, a big chatai, popup mosquito net, medicine box, etc. At the meeting point, around SITE, ice box and the camping tent was also added to it while the rest of the stuff including food was already loaded on the rooftop carrier of our travel companions’ Hi-roof.  

 

We witnessed the sunrise on the RCD Highway after crossing Hub city and before stopping for the anda-paratha breakfast at a better looking truck hotel just short of Windar city. The next milestone was Hingol Bridge River where we reached well before noon with three brief stopovers: 1) Zero Point (the junction between the RCD Highway and the Makran Coastal Highway); 2) Bismillah Hotel where Ghori Sb had to hello-hi an acquaintance; and 3) at Coast Guard’s Chor check post. 

 

The Coast Guard post was the only security check we had to pass through in the whole journey, which was opposite to my earlier experiences when there were more checks. Even those guards were not much bothered and did not ask for the routine register entry. To me the low security was the sign of improving law and order situation, or maybe I’m a bit over optimistic. What do you think? Thankyou Raheel Sharif!?

 

At Hingol River Bridge, we had a much needed drinks break at Al-Hasan Hotel – my favorite stopover situated at the other end of the river – before making a detour to visit the primitive Hinglaj Temple situated inside the Hingol National Park. There is a paved road from the highway all the way to the site. With the construction of a bridge the pathway has become more convenient so it took us hardly half an hour to reach there. We parked the car inside the vicinity and walked to the cave encapsulating the cubical sanctuary. Signs of development were also visible – most notable of which was the paved walkway to the cavern which to me did less service to the pilgrims than did the disservice to the ambiance of the naturally scenic location. 

 

Contrary to my previous pilgrimages, when I found the temple – aka Nani Mandir – deserted, there were signs of life. A group of Hindu yatris was visiting from the Interior Sindh. Some of them were towing barefoot toddler sons for divine blessings. Inside the main temple, the busy Maharaj was seated beside the orange figurines in his typical posture. He took out time for us and elaborated about the commencement of the 9 day festival which is the second in importance, according to him, after the one happens earlier in the year. Besides feeling lucky to get the entry as the premises was then closed for non-Hindus due to the ritual, my mind was also trying to make a connection between Muharram and this ceremony, which is also linked to the lunar calendar. Just to make a point, Aashura has got tremendous significance in the Muslim history which goes all the way to Hazrat Nooh and Hazrat Adam, the reason of two days fasting, in addition to its connection to the sacrifice of Imam Hussain. 

 

We got back to the Al-Hasan Hotel for lunch and decided to stay for an extra hour post lunch waiting for the sun to go down further. Mid-October sun was still hot however the air was cool and refreshing. The moment I shared the idea of having a nap in the cool backyard with Shahzad Ghori, Mikael’s echoing screeched filled the whole surrounding. He fell over and got a cut on his forehead with blood flowing on his face. Initially it looked needing stitches but luckily, Alhamdolillah, it was not that serious and Urooba made use of her medical college training and managed that with the medicine box.

 

Soon we were back on the highway and finally made it to the camping site, Karachi – 249, leaving the Kund Malir beach around 10-15 kilometers behind us. Kund Malir has been gaining popularity among Karachiites which was visible at Al-Hasan Hotel where we met several tour groups coming from the chaotic metropolitan. It was a good sign, but there was a flipside also; the once virgin beauty was cluttered with the haphazard construction. However, one could still find clean stretches a little ahead.

 

At the last accessible beach from the road, also called Melan, we decided to setup our temporary abode. The sun was preparing to set behind the ocean encroaching hill on our right when we were erecting our camps. It was a clean secluded sandy beach slightly downhill from the highway. Cars were parked so that they were visible from the campsite. Ghoris knew their business and within minutes everything was ready; from encampments to the makeshift kitchen and from fishing equipment to the LED lighting system. Our kids were somewhat perplexed in the beginning, since it was their first time camping. Especially, the idea of responding to the nature’s call in the open nature was completely alien to them. 

 

But soon the excitement of freedom overwhelmed all feelings. While the Bihari Boti Karhai was in the making, kids had good fun running around unrestrictedly and playing with the abundant sand. As a father, seeing kids enjoying the liberty of it was a moment of satisfaction for me. I was also hoping that the unpolluted air, the antiseptic sand, and the Vitamin D from the early morning sun would strengthen their immunity to fight the unavoidable viral infections every school going child is supposed to suffer from. 

 

Following the sumptuous dinner, the much awaited bonfire started. Luckily, the air calmed down making it more convenient and pleasant for us. It was only us and the nature; gentle sea breeze, rhythmic sea waves, noiseless surrounding, and a glittering sky. On top of it, the aroma of chargrilled sweet potatoes and corns was making it all so surreal. 

 

Beams of spotlights and soldierly shouts brought us back to the real life. It was the Coast Guard patrol up on the highway who finally noticed our presence in the wilderness. It was not unexpected and Dr. Ghori knew how to deal with them. We took that more of a sign to go to the bed, or in fact to the camp. Trying to squeeze besides kids’ mosquito netting the last thought popped up in my mind was the outrageous tsunami prediction I read on some tabloid a couple of days back! 

 

Fortunately, the prophecy proved to be a rumor and we woke up to a beautiful morning. The sun was about to rise on our left from the ocean; a lovely setting which we observed with family! In the meantime, the breakfast was also being prepared as Shahzad wanted to wind up before the same serene orange ball would convert into a hell sphere. We were back in our cars by 8 am praising him as it was already getting hot with scorching sunrays directly hitting our faces. 

 

Return journey was eventless and after making brief stopovers we reached back home at around 1:30 pm, with sunburns and lifelong memories. 

 



Sunrise on the RCD Highway

 

Makran Coastal Highway Zero Point

The Uninterrupted Landscape

Al-Hasan Hotel at Hingol River

Entry Pont of Hinglaj Temple

 

A Camel in the Middle of Nowhere

Road to Hinglaj Temple Photo Courtesy Nasreen Ghori

Bridge on the Way to Hinglaj Temple Photo Courtesy Nasreen Ghori

Prepartaion of Festival at Nani Mandir

Inside of the Nani Mandir

Home Cooked Lunch reheated at Al-Hasan Hotel Photo Courtesy Nasreen Ghori

Mikael Enjoying the Tractor Ride after the Incident

Coming Back from the Buzi Pass

14 This is where we Camped - Karachi 249



The Campsite with Cars Visible on the Road



Our Home for a Night

The Sun was about to Set

Darkness was about to meet the Wilderness

Crescent of 4th Muharram

Crab's Hard Work Photo Courtesy Nasreen Ghori

Getting Dark

A Beautiful Morning Photo Courtesy Nasreen Ghori

Sunrise at the Beach

In the Desert, Camels Always Have the First Right of Way!

 

Trip Overview

Days: 17-18 October 2015 Saturday – Sunday

Cars: Suzuki Cultus – 2 adults 2 kids. Suzuki Bolan – 5 Adults 2 kids

Fuel: ~35 litres. 50% with AC (Cultus)

Distance Covered: ~600 km

 

Schedule

Day 1 – October 17, 2015

05:00 Left Home; 0km
08:00 Breakfast at Windar; 85km
08:45 Reached Makran Coast Zero Point; 120km
10:45 Reached Hingol River Bridge – Al-Hasan Hotel; 242km
11:30 Left for Nani Mandir; 257km
13:00 Back to HIngol Bridge – Lunch at Al-Hasan Hotel; 273km
16:00 Resumed the Journey to reach Buzi Pass; 315km
17:30 Reached the Site and Setup Camps – Karachi 249; 332km
19:30 Beach-side Dinner and Stargazing
 

Day 2 – October 18, 2015

05:30 Woke up
06:30 Breakfast
08:30 Left the Beach
11:00 Reached Bismallah Hotel before Zero Point for stopover
13:30 Reached back home – safe and sound Alhmadolillah; 613km
 

Links of My Earlier Makran Coast Blogs

Makran Expeditions: http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/search/label/Makran%20Coastal%20Highway
Survival Tips: http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2012/02/karachi-to-gwadar-survival-tips.html
Great Canyon: http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2012/02/great-canyon.html
Chicken Karhai: http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2010/10/chicken-karhai-on-makran-coastal.html
Karachi to Gwadar and Beyond: http://mozumbus.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/one-road-two-thousand-kilometers-in.html
Day trip to Kund Malir and Rock Formations: http://mozumbus.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/makran-coastal-highway-day-trip-till.html

Crossing Pakistan by Road: Experiences of a Foreign Traveler

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While planning for Nepal, early this year, I received an email from Flossie, a traveler who intended to cross Pakistan by road, first crossing from China border to the Northern Areas, and then crossing over to Iran from Quetta and Tuftan. The second part, i.e. crossing over to Iran was specially the concern, for which she wanted my word.

Flossie is one of the bravest persons and greatest travelers I have ever come across as traveling through almost whole Pakistan, from China border to Iran border, is not an easy task, let alone for a solo female traveler!

It was our sheer luck that we could even meet her in person, and that too not in Pakistan, but in Nepal! Then I got to know that Pakistan was part of her bigger overland travels; from Hong Kong all the way to London! Wow! Wow!

After she crossed Pakistan-Iran border safely I requested her to share this extraordinary experience for the benefit of future travelers. Now I am taking the liberty to post this here with a big 'hurray' to brave Flossie:

1. How’s the experience of crossing into Iran overland from Pakistan through Quetta and Taftan?

[logistics from Lahore]

- First, I take a train from Pindi to Quetta. It takes me 48 hours as the train delays all the time

[problems in Quetta, NOC, bus ticket, etc]

- I don't have many problems in Quetta. It is very smooth, thanks to the help of my friends.
- I got NOC within 5 hours in the same day. Couchsurfing is possible, just don't let police know about it. Police in Quetta doesn't like tourists staying with locals. Most overlanders stay in Bloom Star Hotel.

- You can't buy bus ticket from any private bus companies even you have NOC due to security issues. You can only charter a taxi(bloom star hotel can arrange it) or take a flight. No other options.
- I can go by bus due to my luck and help from my friends becoz I went with a worshiping group.

[visa]

- You need a reference code to  get the visa. So apply to Iranian toruist agency first, wait for 2 weeks then confirm the code with the embassy,  submit all relevant documents and you will get a visa for a month.
- Lahore consulate saves all the trouble. My friend doesn't need a reference code and she pays it on the spot. Got the visa after 4 days.

[issues at border crossing, language barrier, etc]

- the bus is really long and hot. it is about 12 hours driving in the desert in a non-air con air. The people on the bus didn't like me to go out so they hided me very well.
- for women, cover as much as you can. Dress like locals. 

- there are lots of check posts on the way. Since I blended in very well, I don't have much problems.

2. While planning Pakistan – Iran border crossing what were your concerns, especially as a solo female traveler?

[security issues, Czech girls]

- Pakistan is really safe other than some regions. Political issues can change the situations very quickly. So always seek advice from locals. But one thing, locals always have conflicting opinions so it's very difficult to make decisions. And no much information on the internet. So try talk to travellers. There are not many travellers in the country and you almost know all of them. Use common sense.

[difficulty of logistics]

- bus connection is really good over the whole country. So it's really easy to travel.

3. Any tips on Pakistan – Iran border crossing for future overland travelers?

- if you have money, please FLY! becoz there is not much to see from this part of Pakistan.
- But if you are out of money and you intend to cross overland, please seek help from locals which they know best about the region. Blend in as much as you can. Move as swift and quiet as you can.

- this is a tough journey

- once you cross the iran border, you will have police escort all the way to Bam, Iran.

4. What was the good part of this journey?

- you will meet lots of REAL travellers, bikers on the road. Once you are in Bam (there is only one hotel for overlanders), you will share all experiences there.

5. How’s the experience of China – Pakistan border crossing at Khunjerab?

[all the way to GIlgit, Attabad lake]

- border crossing from China to Pakistan takes some time. The border opens at 11am but I can only leave China at 12:30pm. Customs are rude.
- it will take one day when you reach Hunza. Be ready!

- the best scenery I have ever seen in the world, esp North Pakistan. Truely stunning and wonderful locals. They try to help you every way possible.

- due to my nationality(China and PK are good friends), I received really warm welcome from Pakistanis.

6. How concerned were you and your family before visiting Pakistan?

[Nanga Parbat incident]

- My family are fine with me as I have been travelling for years so they have confidence with me.

7. How much did you spend in Pakistan? What part of the country you liked the most?

[detailed]

- Wowow! difficult question! I don't remember the budget! I spent around 200 euro for the whole month. Pakistan is the cheapest country I have been so far.
- I like Hunza the best due to stunning scenery. I feel like I am in the fairy tale. So I spent 5 days there.
- I also like Islamabad becoz I met a bunch of good friends. Thanks to couchsurfing.

8. Would you recommend other travelers to come to Pakistan?

[areas which are worth exploring]

- Spend more time in North Pakistan if you are into nature. Lahore is also nice with its history and historical buildings.

[were people friendly and hospitable]

- Super!! Angels on Earth

[any issues especially regarding women, harassing, etc]

- Women are well respected in the country. Compared to its neighbouring countries, I feel really safe here. Oh, one thing, don't give your phone number to anyone you JUST know. Becoz they will spread your numbers to their friends and you will have unwanted attention and call all the time.

Karachi to Quetta-Ziarat Transportation Guide

This review is part of our recent Ziarat trip. Details of the trip here 

Hotel Review: Shalimar Hotel and PTDC Motel

Must See: Ziarat Residency, Apple Farm, and Tourist Traps

Al-Aziz Runs Comfortable Overnight Coaches between Karachi and Quetta - Rs. 2,100

This month we (family of 4) visited the hill station to enjoy the color of autumn and to utilize our long unused inventory of warm clothing. Initially, I planned to go by car but friends suggested otherwise due to the reported security situation especially around Khuzdar, which is halfway between Karachi and Ziarat on the RCD Highway, so we switched to Plan B, i.e. public transport.

Here goes a brief review of our experience on the road:

No Direct Transport between Karachi and Ziarat

There is no direct public transport from Karachi to Ziarat therefore one has to take a break in Quetta and then transfer to the Ziarat bound hiace/coaster. The transfer can be made immediately, in the earlier part of the day, as there are multiple vans going to the hill station each day.

Karachi to Quetta

For Karachi to Quetta there are many options available; one of the cheapest is the regular coach (Rs. 1,200 pp; twice a day) while the most expensive is Toyota 2.0D taxi (Rs. 3,500 pp, only in morning). Among those, I opted for the 30 seater 2x1 overnight luxury coach (Rs. 2,100 pp, twice a day) run by Al-Aziz, upon Zahoor’s advice who is the manager of Shalimar Hotel Ziarat.

Al-Aziz Coach

After a little googling I found Al-Aziz Coach contact numbers and booked our seats via phone a day before the journey. The coach had to depart at 7pm from Yousuf Goth Terminal, on the Hub River Road, which is way out of the city; however, they provided the shuttle service from their office located near Hassan Square, where we had to reach at 5:30pm to pay for the tickets and to catch the shuttle at 6pm. We did exactly that

Shuttle Service

The shuttle service was a bit uncomfortable and a little late too but not too annoying for the 45 minutes ride. We transferred to the big coach which left the Quetta bound terminal half an hour late as it had to wait for some confirmed passengers who were reportedly stuck up in the city traffic.

Journey Starts

Bus looked new with business class style seats; fully reclining and comfy. Most of the passengers were families with some having kids too. Lights were turned off after 15 minutes and the whole bus went into hibernation, except for the driver off course! There were 5-6 empty seats when we started the journey, which became a nuisance as the staff filled them up enroute with discounted passengers!

After two and a half hours, around 10pm, the bus took a stopover at Bela at a designated restaurant which was selling bad quality food in a disgusting environment. Surprisingly, the stopover on the way back, at Khuzdar, was much better with reasonable facilities.

Al-Aziz Coach Office at Hassan Square

Al-Aziz Coach Runs Shuttle Service Between Hassan Square and Yousuf Goth Terminal

Al-Aziz Coach Yousuf Goth Terminal on Hub River Road - Located Inconvenientl

Al-Aziz Caoch has 2x1 Comfy Seating

We Reached Quetta Before the Sunrise

Quetta to Ziarat

We reached Quetta around the sunrise and promptly took a rikshaw to the Ziarat bound bus station located at Spinzai Road. For Ziarat, I wanted to buy tickets in the coaster, rather than in the hiace, for the sake of comfort, however, I could not find the office of Kakar Transport.

When we reached the hiace stand, at around 7am, there was a van standing stuffed up with passengers and still selling seats. Touts there tried hard to convince me to get onboard but I insisted on the next van for better seating.

For Ziarat, I bought 4 seats, instead of 2, in the middle of the van to make the onward journey less uncomfortable. Next van departed at 8am, reached the hill station around 10:30 am, and dropped us right in front of Shlimar Hotel. http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2012/11/shalimar-hotel-ziarat-and-ptdc-motel.html

In all, it took us around 18 hours, door to door!

Return Journey

Return journey was quicker and took 16 hours door to door. From Ziarat, I pre-booked 4 seats in the Kakar Transport’s coaster, which picked us up right from our accommodation at 2:10pm, a bit late than the given time.

We reached back Quetta before 5pm and took the rickshaw to Al-Aziz Coach Terminal at Saryab Road. Interestingly, we forgot to pick Mikael’s stroller while leaving the hotel but luckily there was another hiace following the coaster which picked that and brought it to Quetta, just in time!

There I made a mistake! Rather than booking the return seats in the Karachi coach – when we reached Quetta from Karachi – I thought doing it later via phone, which did not prove wise as the staff was very reluctant in making reservation on phone. Thankfully, the mistake did not turn into a trouble.

Coach left the terminal around 6:15 pm; again a few minutes late, however, it was full this time. It reached Khuzdar at around 10pm and took stopover for dinner. The hotel there was very reasonable with clean toilet facilities.

Finally we reached back Karachi Saddar at 5:30am where I took a rickshaw and reached back home safe and sound Alhamdulillah around 6am!

Kakar Transport Runs Coaster Between Quetta and Ziarat

A Fruit Laden Truck on the Highway

Mud Houses Between Ziarat and Quetta

Al-Aziz Coach Terminal at Saryab Road Quetta

Expense Sheet

Home to Hassan Square Rickshaw: Rs. 200

Karachi – Quetta Coach: Rs. 4,000 (2 seats)

Quetta Rickshaw: Rs. 100

Quetta – Ziarat: Rs. 520 (4 seats)

Ziarat – Quetta: Rs. 560 (4 seats)

Quetta Rickshaw: Rs. 200

Quetta – Karachi: Rs. 4,200

Saddar to Home Rickshaw: Rs. 300

Contact Numbers – Al-Aziz Coach Quetta

Hassan Square Karachi: (021) 34945778 – Saleem

Saryab Road Quetta: (081) 2450607 – Naseebullah

Contact Numbers – Kakar Transport Ziarat

Ziarat: 0333 7057573 – Musa Jaan

Quetta: 0333 7839642

Contact Numbers – Qadri 2.0D  Car Service

Karachi: 0301 2513311

Quetta: 0300 3800383

Lahore: 0302 3846001

Islamabad: 0321 5221057

This review is part of our recent Ziarat trip. Details of the trip here 

Hotel Review: Shalimar Hotel and PTDC Motel

Must See: Ziarat Residency, Apple Farm, and Tourist Traps