Showing posts with label Iran. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Iran. Show all posts

Friday, January 18, 2019

City Walk 6: Lyari - Karachi's Most Dangerous Neighborhood (Now Peaceful)

Lyari's Cheel Chowk - Used to be the Icon of Terror
Lyari is the most feared neighborhood in Karachi, if not in the World! So much so that when I was making the Lyari Walk plan, some friends thought its too crazy and even backed out. In the recent past, the locality gained an unwanted publicity as a den of all sort of criminals, from drug peddlers to gangs notorious for kidnapping for ransom.

Lately, life in Lyari has come back to normalcy, courtesy a heavy handed cleanup operation by the law enforcement agencies all around Karachi.

Now the neighborhood could be safely visited and craving to bring back its lost cultural and sporting glory.

Although, Lyari is an integral part of the city and located very close to the downtown, it has a totally distinct vibe from the rest of the metropolitan. The difference is so stark that we looked more like tourists in our city! For almost all of us, a group of around 15 people from random Karachi neighborhoods, it was our first visit of this feared neighborhood.

We started from the breakfast at Cafe Malbari near Baghdadi Police Station, after gathering at the Empress Market, Saddar, at around 7:30 am. It was a sumptuous breakfast with Choora Paratha and Daal Makhni being the main highlights. The cafe is rightfully considered legendary and attracted coverage from the local English press as well: http://images.dawn.com/news/1176249.

After having breakfast, we traversed back to the colorful Baghdadi Street which has got positive coverage in the media recently, courtesy an NGO working for Lyari's image building. A couple of  local lads reminded us to be less intruding in their typical style, which some of us found unfriendly, so after having a quick look we once again stuffed in our cars and headed to Aath Chowk.

We parked our cars at Aath Chowk, and then decided walking towards our main landmark, the most ferocious landmark in Karahci: Cheel Chowk.

The ambiance was peaceful and calm. At no point in time, we felt uncomfortable or threatened. We passed through Chakiwara, huge walled historical graveyards, Benazir Univeristy, Kalakot, and finally made it to the Cheel Chowk, in one piece each, and had a group photo there!

We further walked through Kumhar Para in Nawa Lane and ended the walk at Bakra Peeree.

Abu Bakar Baloch, a journalist belonging to Lyari, was waiting for us at his locality near Bakra Peeree Junction. A friendly and soft spoken person like most Lyari dwellers, Abu Bakar was proud of his Baloch roots especially emphasizing that it was the Irani Baloch lineage which his family holds.

At Bakra Peeree, we decided to hire rikshaws which took us to Dhobi Ghat before dropping us back to Aath Chowk.

We Started with Breakfast at the Legendary Malbari Cafe Besided Joona Masjid


Joona Jama Masjid Lyari
The Colorful Baghdadi Street in Lyari
Lyari's Aath Chowk (8 Way Roundabout)
A Community Center in Lyari
Lyari Has Got Banks But No ATMs!
An Under Construction Religious School in Chakiwara Lyari
Boundary Wall of a Historic Shia Graveyard - Hoosaini Baagh
Stone Work at Graveyard Entrance

Another Gate of Hoosaini Baagh - Note the Script, Gujraati I Believe
Lyari Suffers from Electricity Breakdowns Due to Power Theft
Not For Sale, please
Another Historical Graveyard - We Were Not Allowed Inside
A Decorated Bus
Chassis!
Yellow Stone Entrance
The Old Lyari Degree College
Another Graveyard of Bohri Jamaat
Dawoodi Bohra Graveyard
We Managed to Peek Inside
Gujraati Script!
Getting Closer to Cheel Chowk
Kalakot: Another Feared Name!
Lyari Has Got Rich Sport Heritage
Aik Hee Saf Mein Kharay Ho Gai Mehmoodo Ayaz!
Brave Walkers at Lyaris's Cheel Chowk
The Desi Hospital of Orthopedic Surgery
We Walked Through Kumhaar Muhalla - Clay Potters
Gullak
Clay Work
Cruise Ship
Street Life in Lyari
Lyari Boys
The Real Football!
Writing on the Wall! 
Lyari's Balochistan Connection is Strong
Iranian Lassi in Lyari
Dhobhi Ghaat Around Lyari Express Way
Dhobis Legendary Ghada
Kishti Waali Mosque

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Crossing Pakistan by Road: Experiences of a Foreign Traveler


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While planning for Nepal, early this year, I received an email from Flossie, a traveler who intended to cross Pakistan by road, first crossing from China border to the Northern Areas, and then crossing over to Iran from Quetta and Tuftan. The second part, i.e. crossing over to Iran was specially the concern, for which she wanted my word.

Flossie is one of the bravest persons and greatest travelers I have ever come across as traveling through almost whole Pakistan, from China border to Iran border, is not an easy task, let alone for a solo female traveler!

It was our sheer luck that we could even meet her in person, and that too not in Pakistan, but in Nepal! Then I got to know that Pakistan was part of her bigger overland travels; from Hong Kong all the way to London! Wow! Wow!

After she crossed Pakistan-Iran border safely I requested her to share this extraordinary experience for the benefit of future travelers. Now I am taking the liberty to post this here with a big 'hurray' to brave Flossie:

1. How’s the experience of crossing into Iran overland from Pakistan through Quetta and Taftan?
[logistics from Lahore]
- First, I take a train from Pindi to Quetta. It takes me 48 hours as the train delays all the time
[problems in Quetta, NOC, bus ticket, etc]
- I don't have many problems in Quetta. It is very smooth, thanks to the help of my friends.
- I got NOC within 5 hours in the same day. Couchsurfing is possible, just don't let police know about it. Police in Quetta doesn't like tourists staying with locals. Most overlanders stay in Bloom Star Hotel.
- You can't buy bus ticket from any private bus companies even you have NOC due to security issues. You can only charter a taxi(bloom star hotel can arrange it) or take a flight. No other options.
- I can go by bus due to my luck and help from my friends becoz I went with a worshiping group.

[visa]
- You need a reference code to  get the visa. So apply to Iranian toruist agency first, wait for 2 weeks then confirm the code with the embassy,  submit all relevant documents and you will get a visa for a month.
- Lahore consulate saves all the trouble. My friend doesn't need a reference code and she pays it on the spot. Got the visa after 4 days.

[issues at border crossing, language barrier, etc]
- the bus is really long and hot. it is about 12 hours driving in the desert in a non-air con air. The people on the bus didn't like me to go out so they hided me very well.
- for women, cover as much as you can. Dress like locals. 
- there are lots of check posts on the way. Since I blended in very well, I don't have much problems.

2. While planning Pakistan – Iran border crossing what were your concerns, especially as a solo female traveler?
[security issues, Czech girls]
- Pakistan is really safe other than some regions. Political issues can change the situations very quickly. So always seek advice from locals. But one thing, locals always have conflicting opinions so it's very difficult to make decisions. And no much information on the internet. So try talk to travellers. There are not many travellers in the country and you almost know all of them. Use common sense.

[difficulty of logistics]
- bus connection is really good over the whole country. So it's really easy to travel.

3. Any tips on Pakistan – Iran border crossing for future overland travelers?
- if you have money, please FLY! becoz there is not much to see from this part of Pakistan.
- But if you are out of money and you intend to cross overland, please seek help from locals which they know best about the region. Blend in as much as you can. Move as swift and quiet as you can.
- this is a tough journey
- once you cross the iran border, you will have police escort all the way to Bam, Iran.

4. What was the good part of this journey?
- you will meet lots of REAL travellers, bikers on the road. Once you are in Bam (there is only one hotel for overlanders), you will share all experiences there.

5. How’s the experience of China – Pakistan border crossing at Khunjerab?

[all the way to GIlgit, Attabad lake]
- border crossing from China to Pakistan takes some time. The border opens at 11am but I can only leave China at 12:30pm. Customs are rude.
- it will take one day when you reach Hunza. Be ready!
- the best scenery I have ever seen in the world, esp North Pakistan. Truely stunning and wonderful locals. They try to help you every way possible.
- due to my nationality(China and PK are good friends), I received really warm welcome from Pakistanis.


6. How concerned were you and your family before visiting Pakistan?
[Nanga Parbat incident]
- My family are fine with me as I have been travelling for years so they have confidence with me.

7. How much did you spend in Pakistan? What part of the country you liked the most?
[detailed]
- Wowow! difficult question! I don't remember the budget! I spent around 200 euro for the whole month. Pakistan is the cheapest country I have been so far.
- I like Hunza the best due to stunning scenery. I feel like I am in the fairy tale. So I spent 5 days there.
- I also like Islamabad becoz I met a bunch of good friends. Thanks to couchsurfing.

8. Would you recommend other travelers to come to Pakistan?
[areas which are worth exploring]
- Spend more time in North Pakistan if you are into nature. Lahore is also nice with its history and historical buildings.
[were people friendly and hospitable]
- Super!! Angels on Earth
[any issues especially regarding women, harassing, etc]
- Women are well respected in the country. Compared to its neighbouring countries, I feel really safe here. Oh, one thing, don't give your phone number to anyone you JUST know. Becoz they will spread your numbers to their friends and you will have unwanted attention and call all the time.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Trip Report: Cruising through the Great Canyon

The Great Canyon! Isn't It?
Last month I got yet another opportunity to drive through the magnificent Makran Coastal Highway. This time it was with my old time University fellows. Since we planned for a Day Trip only so we decided to drive till the picturesque Buzi Pass, around 250 km from Karachi. In fact it was the first time for the rest of the troupe so I had to play the guide role also!

The journey went smooth as per the plans Alhmdolillah. We started off from Karachi even before the sunrise and took a sojourn at Hub for prayers and refueling. After which we drove non-stop till the Hingol River Bridge to have a fulfilling brunch with karak chai at Al-Hasan Hotel.

Both RCD highway and the Makran Coastal Highway are in reasonably good condition. Since it was Sunday morning, so we experienced very thin commercial traffic on the Quetta bound road which was a much relief actually.


Nothing has changed on the Coastal highway since my last journey a year back except for the completion of the under construction bridge before Agore built on the patch of the highway that disappeared due to floods years back.

Past Hingol Bridge it was all beauty as expected. Friends were awestruck in fact. Subhanallahe Wabihamdehi Subhanallahel Azeem!


سبحان الله و بحمدہ سبحان الله ا لعظیم

It took us around four hours, including the enroute stops, to reach to the height of the wilderness, i.e. to the 1500 feet high Buzi Pass.

We saw the Pass and the adjacent canyon in the full sunlight and under clear skies, a great experience indeed. After the trip I was thinking of naming this gorgeous canyon and decided to call it the Great Canyon from now. This title will also remind how the army of the Alexander the Great suffered in those torturous ravines while coming back from the Indian Campaign!

Smell of something burning was in the air. As a Karachite, my riot-censors were about to wake up until I realized that this is coming out of the break-shoes of the passing trailers loaded with fertilizer they picked from Gwadar. A truck wala was in fact busy in managing his vehicle from one hand while capturing the shots of his life with the help of his mobile camera from the other!

We then backtracked to the Rock Formations for another Photo Session. Both Sphinx and the Princess of Hope are just mind boggling. Even after visiting so many times my mind cannot believe that this is just carved by the passing winds! I noticed a change there this time. A triangular flag – akin to what one can find outside shrines and temples – was wavering besides the Princess of Hope signboard.

A similar kind of flag is also mounted near the Kund Malir beach also which we touched on the way back.

The beach was picture perfect and the calm waters were too tempting so we parked the car off the road for some quick splashes. A local has setup a small grocery kiosk there for the rare picnickers. I was offered a cup of tea by the hospitable Makrani fishermen chitchatting with each other. One of them tried to scare me by telling that there are cannibals living in the mountains. Maybe he is right, the area is still least explored!

At around 2 we got packed up in the car again for the return journey halfway through which we met a desert storm developed due to hot and dry conditions. That continued for about half an hour effectively reducing our speed however we managed to reach back Karachi safe and sound just before the sunset, Alhmdolillah!

Here are the timelines of the Day Trip:

0600 Left Karachi
0630 Reached Hub. Fajr Prayers and Refueling.
0815 Zero Point Makran Coastal Highway
1000 Reached Hingol River Bridge. Brunch at Al-Hasan Hotel
1100 Reached Buzi Pass. Photo Session of the Great Canyon before backtracking.
1200 Rock Formations. Photo Session of the Princess of Hope and the Sphiix
1300 Kund Malir Beach
1400 Return Journey started
1600 Reached RCD Highway Junction (Zero Point). Tea Break
1800 Back Home

We were four guys in Tariq’s Mehran which gave excellent mileage for the 550 km journey. Around 25 litres of petrol and 10 kg of CNG was enough for the long drive.

Now enjoy the select photographs courtesy Umer and others:

Zero Point - the Junction between the RCD Highway and the Makran Coastal Highway
Time Starts Now!
Colors of Pakistan
The Road to the Wilderness
Journey Continues
The Chilli Effect
The Slope
Local Life
Kund Malir
Life Along the Coast
The Virgin Beach
Always Expect a Sharp Turn
Under Construction
Cruising through the Great Canyon
Wonder Why the Alexander's Army Got Trapped Here!?
This is What Makes it Great
Sandy
The Beautiful Coastal Highway
An Inhabitant
Matching Colors
Hingol National Park
The Sphinx of Makran
Princess of Hope
or the Princess of Wilderness?
Anyways, it is Just Mind Boggling
Carved by Winds. Really!?
Peace
The Temple of Unknown Goddess!
We Hit the Sandstorm on Our Way Back
Back to the Zero Point
Smuggling or What?