(Part 11) Goodbye Neelum Valley: Kutton to Karachi Nonstop

Neelum Valley Farewell Shot: Kutton - Kundal Shahi Road

This is Neelum Valley Travelogue Part 11 (Last Part)
Click here for Part 10 Part 9 Part 8 Part 7 Part 6 Part 5 Part 4 Part 3 Part 2  Part 1

Day 21: Sunday, September 7, 2014

Finally we could see the sun in the morning after four days of complete cloud cover. With that, the merciless rain spell came to an end, but there was no guarantee that it would not resume. Homesick and desperate to get back home, we took that as a window of opportunity to get down from the Kutton hill station to the Neelum Valley road. It would have been only the first out of many steps towards the long backward journey.  

At the resort, most of the remaining staff also left as there were no guests accept for us. Even the cook was not there so we helped ourselves for the breakfast using the resort’s big and well equipped kitchen. Interestingly, I bought a whole dozen of free range (desi) eggs from the market last evening and we had no option but to finish them all before leaving the place!

Our return journey consisted of many stretches. The first was getting down from Kutton to the main Neelum Valley Road at Kundal Shahi town. From Kundal Shahi, the second step was to make it to Muzaffarabad – the capital of Azad Kashmir. Part of the hilly road from Kutton to Kundal Shahi was already wiped out in the floods. From Kundal Shahi to Muzaffarabad also, landslides were expected. With minimum telecommunication facilities, there was no reliable information available and we were at the mercy of our luck. It had already been three weeks out of home with two kids in the tow. So despite all the uncertainties we decided to take the risk and embarked on the journey back home.

Crossing the Daunting Land Sliding by Foot: Kutton Resort to Neelum Valley Road

The hotel manager sent someone out of the resort for brining the taxi for the first stretch of our journey. In the meanwhile, I cleared resort dues and had a goodbye session with the staff who took good care of us.

Kutton – Kundal Shahi Road was an otherwise 7km scenic motorable path running along the Jagran Stream but due to the floods it got damaged from various points. At one point, almost halfway, a part of the road was totally wiped off due to the heavy landslide. At that juncture, it was a complete rout; a mixture of mud, stones, and water was spread all over engulfing a furlong of the metalled road. The slide was not active but small stones were still making their way down to the furious water stream. That patch was barely walk-able so the taxi driver dropped us there instructing to cross that mushy slope by foot.

Even though the taxi driver was helpful and walked to and fro to move our luggage and kids, it was still challenging for us to crossover the narrow ridge. Fumbling and tumbling, we managed to pass the last test, and reached the safe zone without any serious damage. I was feeling lucky that we did not bring our car as the road did not look getting restored in the near future! From the other side of the mudslide, we grabbed another taxi to reach to Kundal Shahi. Afterwards, it was the eventless journey to the main Neelum Road except for a couple of photography stops. At the last waterfall, we stopped to say the formal goodbye to the Neelum Valley with mixed feelings. On one hand, we were relieved to escape from the flood hit stranded region but on the other hand all of us were heavyhearted on leaving that piece of heaven.

Finding Internet and Connecting Back to the Civilization

At Kundal Shahi, I found an internet café and got connected to the cyber world after a fortnight. I needed the connectivity only to see if there were any flights available from Islamabad to Karachi as we wanted to get back home asap. Unfortunately, all flights were booked, adding more uncertainty to the already uncertain plan.

Kundal Shahi to Muzaffarabad; Landslide Again!

From Kundal Shahi, we had to make it to Muzaffarabad. It was not very difficult to get a transport from there and around noon we were squeezed in a hi-ace going to the state’s capital. Kundal Shahi – Muzaffarabad road is part of Neelum Valley road, which runs along the pristine river. That was the most developed part of the logistic backbone connecting outside world to heavenly valleys. However, it was still prone to natural calamities. After an hour of smooth drive, we were stopped at another landslide. Luckily, the heavy machinery was already there. Even then it took a couple of hours to clear the road. I took that an opportunity to introduce kids from Caterpillar and its associates. For both the children it was an interesting sight, especially for Mikael who would relate that to his tractor book back home!

Back to the Plains

It was 5 pm, when the hi-ace dropped us at the chaotic bus terminal of Muzaffarabad where I checked for Islamabad options. We were particularly interested in hiring a Corolla but could not find one and then Qadri Coach, the best public transport between the two capitals, was ready for the departure. So we quickly jumped into the bandwagon and resumed our journey with a short break only enough for the children to get a nappy change. It was around sunset when the coach was climbing the Murree hills. The horizon was all filled with fascinating colors with cascading mountains – as if giving as a farewell and invitation to revisit at the same time.

The coach took a brief stop for meals downhill before making its way to the Skyways bus terminal located at the junction between Islamabad and Rawalpindi. Three weeks back, it was all silent due to Imran Khan’s dharna but when we reached back life seemed comparatively normal.

Airplane, Train, or Bus?

We reached the Islamabad terminal at around 9 pm and had to decide whether to stay in the Capital or resume the journey nonstop. We did not have many options. Flights were all full, even for the next morning. Bus all the way to Karachi, even if it were Daewoo, could have been too exhausting and was out of question. Taking train from Rawalpindi was not also reassuring especially when the TV channels were flashing big time floods in that region. Finally, rather than staying in Islamabad, we decided taking an overnight bus to Lahore.

Day 22: Monday, September 8, 2014

A Night on the Islamabad – Lahore Motorway

After a couple of hours, we were in the Skybus going to Lahore, through motorway. It was an eventless and smooth journey comfortable enough for the kids to have some sleep. We reached Lahore in the wee hours, found a rickshaw big enough to accommodate us and our luggage, and made it to Lahore Railway Station where Shalimar Express was ready for departure to Karachi. We again contemplated to stay in Lahore, after a nonstop journey of 18 hours but then we wanted to get back home as a first priority. So I bought a couple of berths in the AC compartment before nodding to a persistent coolie who guided us to our bogie.           

The Train Departed on Time!

The train did not look bad. Engine looked new while the compartments in our bogie were properly segregated and to our good luck we were the only passengers in our box. To our further good luck, the train departed on time, i.e. 6am!

Where Had All the Floodwater Gone?

I was particularly interested, or worried, about the floods that reportedly engulfed the Central Pakistan, which the train was about to enter. Television channels had also been reporting huge losses and submerging of transportation routes. For some part of our initial journey, especially between Lahore and Faisalabad, there was water on both sides of the rail track, however, not enough to disturb train operations. After Faisalabad, it looked pretty ok and unaffected, as if nothing happened, or we might be away from the flood path.

The Train Experience

Service in the train was also up to the mark. Ticket checker was a young boy and was accompanied by the other supporting staff of his age. All of them were busy in discharging their duties diligently and none of them look interested in taking bribes from free riders. It was contrary to what I had always experienced in Pakistani trains. One of them revealed that the new system is not liked so much among traditional cadre, for obvious reasons, who do not let go any opportunity to let it down. He further told me that along with the new engines Shalimar Express was allotted with new bogies, however, the same mafia managed to divert that to somewhere else; otherwise the quality of the service would have been even better.  We also ordered meal and tea from the dining car, and at one time visited the restaurant on wheels, and found that quite edible.

Murphy’s Law is All Too Predictable with Pakistan Railways

It was smooth sailing until we crossed Multan and reached further down to Samasatta Train Station at around 2pm. It was only then the inevitable happened. Electricity system of the train broke down. Since it was a private train, the resident staff at the station did not look very interested in fixing that up. They did give a try, with their 19^th century equipment but failed and perhaps caused more damage. Sensing the situation, and non availability of a backup, the experienced train driver decided to change the sequence of the bogies, an exercise which took around two to three hours to complete.

Last of the event had yet to come. I was out at the platform, when the train driver disconnected half the train and took that to a nearby track. That included our boggy also! When I got back to the compartment, it was unbearably hot as the AC was turned off and fearing for her father Misha was crying with the loudest screams ever! More due to the heat and suffocation, that episode was the toughest of our whole trip.

Back Home, Finally

Thankfully it was the last happening and the train kept running and entered Karachi’s precinct past well past midnight. We reached Karachi Cantt Station at around 4 am, and instantly spotted a taxi driver right at the platform who took us straight to our home.

The journey ended, so did the memorable trip and its travelogue!  

Kutton's Jagran Resort; Cloud Cover Finally Opening Up

Part of Kutton - Kundal Shahi Road after the Floods

A Closer Look of the Land Sliding on Kutton - Kundal Shahi Road

We Crossed this Landslide by Foot

Jagran Nala; Still Furious Although Floods Had Been Over

We Took Sojourn Here at Kundal Shahi Before Resuming Our Journey to Muzaffarabad

Landslide on Neelum Valley Road

Caterpillar Removing Landslide from the Neelum Valley Road

Landslides and Road Disruptions are Part of Life Around Neelum Valley

The Chaotic Bus Adda of Muzaffarabad

Engine of Shalimar Express

Pakistan Railway is now Dependent on China for the Engines

Multan Railway Station

Traditional Blue Tiles at Multan Railway Station

Food of Train's Dining Car was Good

The Unending Greenery of the Central Pakistan

Green and Greener

Taobat Jeep Ticket

Sharda Rocket Bus Ticket

Sharda Hiace Contact

Muzaffarabad - Islamabad Skyways Ticket

Islamabad - Lahore Skyways Ticket

Shalimar Express Ticket

(Part 10) Getting Stuck in Kutton during Monsoon Floods

Jagran Resort Kutton

This is Neelum Valley Travelogue Part 10
Click here for Part 9 Part 8 Part 7 Part 6 Part 5 Part 4 Part 3 Part 2  Part 1

Day 17: Wednesday, September 3, 2014

The Early Warning

Late last evening, a hotel staff knocked our door and warned us about the possibility of floods in the coming days. Heavy monsoon rains had been expected inundating the rivers and tributaries all around the valley and chopping off the road infrastructure. The resort got the early warning from the metrological department and was instructed to inform visitors as well. The attendant clearly conveyed us that we should either leave as early as possible or otherwise we would have to wait until it would be over, which could take at least 2-3 days or at worst a week, or more! According to him, we were otherwise safe at the resort as it was located out of the danger zone. He also assured that some of the staff would remain there with enough food supplies should we decide staying.

A Catch 22

In case we decided staying, we did not know how many days the flood would prevail and what would be the condition of roads once it would be over. And in case we decided leaving and commencing the long journey back home we could get stuck on the road, an even worse scenario. Groups of tourists which we saw the day before were also leaving hastily with their vehicles. They were more worried about landslides. Finally, amid all the panic, we decided to stay put postponing our departure until things would get clear and hoping that it would get clear soon.

Jagran Resort – an Unforgettable Experience

The place we were staying in, Jagran Hydroelectric Resort, was not a bad place for getting stuck. It was adequately furnished, well maintained, aesthetically designed, and was surrounding by an enchanting scenery. The resort was actually a housing colony made for the foreign engineers who looked after the construction of a 30 MW Jagran Power House on the Jagran water stream. The power plant was located further uphill and could only be accessed through a four wheeler. After completion of the project, the overseas staff departed back and the facility was converted into a tourist resort. Due to its better upkeep, which is not so common in Pakistan, it had become the most sought after tourist spot around and that too within a reasonable price range.

Unbelievable Pricing

A furnished chalet, with a working kitchen, attached bathroom, double bad, and a small study cum dining room was priced at only PKR 1,400 per night (USD 14). It was almost free! Single room was even cheaper while a few fully furnished villas were also available for bigger families. No surprise why the resort remains in high demand during summers and can only be booked in advance from Muzaffarabad if and only if it is spared by high-ranking bureaucrats and powerful politicians. An attendant also told me about the recent visit of Faryal Talpur, an influential politican and sister of our ex-President Zardari, and how all of the resort, which can accommodate 200-300 people, had been vacated due to her protocol!

Best attraction of the resort was its exemption from the load shedding. Yes, you read it correctly; electricity was available uninterrupted 24 hours a day. That was because the place was sort of a communication hub for the Jagran Power Station.

‘Came’ What May!

As per the prediction, around noon strong clouds engulfed the blue sky which was mostly clear till the morning and soon it was all covered and started drizzling. Consequently we had to cut short our exploratory walk around the apple and pear orchids and hurry back to our dugout before it would get worse. Contrary to our apprehension, the precipitation never converted into a fully fledged rain, but neither did it stop. It was a consistent harmless looking gentle rain which continued for the rest of the day nonstop. Staff at the rest house looked really worried and glued to the television. According to them, that consistency was the sign of an imminent big time flood. They were recalling the 2010 calamity, when all the roads were washed away due to landslides and tourists at the resort had to stay back for more than a week.

But it did not look so bleak. The only repercussion for us was that we could not move out much, and frankly speaking we did not want to undertake any further trekking. So we were kind of well off with the proposition and enjoyed our time; eating Chicken Karhai, watching television, and relaxing!

Day 18: Thursday, September 4, 2014

Monsoon Finally Arrived, and in a Big Way

As expected, it kept thundering and lightening furiously throughout the whole night. The monsoon was late this year and probably why it was so angry. When we woke up in the morning, it was still drizzling mildly with the same pace it was falling the day earlier. Outside, it was not that bad. I took kids out for fruit picking and ordered for the breakfast in the meantime.

Playing Both Sides of the Fence

The attendant informed that there had been no major damage in Kutton village, however, television reported massive destruction around Kashmir, especially hitting Bagh district of Azad Kashmir and Sri Nagar – the capital of Maqbooza Kashmir. Road network in both parts had been disconnected. For the vagaries of nature, the manmade fence, the Line of Control, had no meaning.

Loved Ones Back Home were Anxious

Around noon, another attendant knocked our room and advised to visit the office to attend the telephone call from home as the internal telephony network had been turned off as a precautionary measure. I assured my worried mother that we were safe and healthy and will only be moving out once the situation would revert back to the normal.

The Scenic Jagran Stream Transformed into a Monster

I borrowed an umbrella from the staff and ventured outside the resort to grab some latest news and snacks – our favorite family pastime then. In front of the resort’s main entrance, Jagran Nala, which was a pretty looking blue stream only a couple of days back, had been converted into a giant mud-colored uncontrollable water force looking ready to run over the side walls. Flowing like a monster it was several feet higher than where it was before the deluge. A sight I cannot forget throughout my life.

Slow Poising Continued

The drizzle continued the whole day and with the same moderate tempo. To make things worse, the electricity was also disconnected in the evening as the power plant had to be shut off due to the rising water level. As a result, the television, our main connection with the outside world, also switched off. Interestingly, since power outages were uncommon, there was no emergency light in the resort so during the night we had to use cell phones as torches!

Finally, the weird feeling of getting stranded had started catching upon us!

Day 19: Friday, September 5, 2014

Dark and Silent

Without the electricity, and the emergency light, it was a pitch black night. And the silence was pin drop! It was like we were placed in the set of a horror movie! The only sound we could hear was emanating from the enraged Jagran Stream which was getting noisier with every passing moment so much so that at one point I thought the water will enter our room crashing the doors and the windows – although it was a couple of hundred meters  away and our room was located at a reasonable height.

Life was Getting Tougher

First thing in the morning, I walked to the outside market and bought batteries for the torch. It was still drizzling, almost 48 hours nonstop, with the typical slow rhythm. On any other day, it would have been a perfect setting for a romantic timeout. However, the furiousness of Jagran Stream and the worrying faces of locals had been telling a different story. After electricity breakdown the day before, phone lines had also been cut down disconnecting us fully from the outside world. Locals were discussing about landslides and jamming of power plant’s inlet by big rocks flowing with the flood.

Hats off to the Resort Staff

In that difficult time, attitude of the resort’s staff was our only ray of hope. All of them showed great character and made sure our comfort in the given conditions. They mostly belonged to the nearby villages and were as courteous and friendly as other locals I met around Kutton. A group of staff trekked down all the way to Kundal Shahi by foot to help restore another small power plant along River Neelum. They came back with the latest news which was not so encouraging. Still then, their support was instrumental in keeping our morals high otherwise we would have been cursing our decision of staying there rather than leaving a couple of days back.

Fruit Picking

We had nothing to do except for eating, relaxing, and picking apples and pears from the trees around. Apples were especially in such abundance that we never felt awkward if one or two of them came under our feet! They were all around; on the trees, on the cottage roofs, in the gardens, and on the alleys and roads. Besides apples and pears, we also picked ripe plums and unripe persimmon, kiwifruit, and figs.

Some Light at the End of the Tunnel, Finally

Things started getting better in the evening; the rain was finally having breaks, although it was not fully over, and the sky started peeking from one corner.  The resort management also turned on the heavy backup generator for an hour, connecting us back to the world through telephone and television. While going to sleep, we were praying our hearts out for a much awaited clear morning.

Day 20: Saturday, September 6, 2014

Enough is Enough

The sky was partially clear and the rain had stopped when we woke up. It was our fifth day in Kutton and twentieth on the road. Despite of living in a very comfortable and beautiful setting, all of us started getting homesick. Warm sunrays were giving us a hope that we would be leaving soon.

One More Day

At the breakfast, the staff told us that the road from Kutton to Kundal Shahi had been badly hit due to the flood water. Parts of the road had been wiped out by the landslides. We could also hear the sound of the heavy machinery busy in unblocking the trek. Government authorities were there and Kutton road was up in the priority due to the Jagran Power Plant. Still it could take several days to fully store the passage given that there would have no more rain. The staff suggested us to stay there for one more day until the situation would get clearer. We obliged to their advice and spent the day wandering around the resort.

Chitchat

After the lunch, I went out again to the market for news and grocery. People coming from the downhill enlightened about the real situation on the ground. Kutton road had been washed away from two points; however, the bridge did not collapse contrary to the rumor among the resort staff. One of the landslides was also expected to get clear by the evening improving our chances for the coming day. At the market, I had interesting conversations with the locals; some of them had been to Karachi for work. They were all friendly and hospitable. The tea vendor not only denied charging for the cup of qahwa but he also baked a fresh corn from his fields for the kids!

Electricity also got restored around the sunset adding to the good omens. We packed our entire luggage before calling it a day and went to the bed much relieved.  

Jagran Resort is Operated by the Hydro Electrci Board

Main Entrance of Jagran Resort

Single and Double Bed Rooms

Our Cozy Cottage

We Could be Reached at 3.1, Jagran Resort, Kutton, Neelum Valley, Azad Kashmir

Note the Falling Apples on the Roof

Kitchen was Clean and in Working Condition

The Backdoor Trek to Our Room

Misha Wanted to do that Without Support

Having Street Food

The Mosque Inside the Resort

The Defunct Fuel Tank Had Been Used During the Project Construction

The Furious Jagran Nale Outside the Resort After Floods

A Pear Tree Inside Jagran Resort

A Pair of Juicy Pears

Figs Were Not Ready Then

Pink Apples!

A Hard Target

Those Pink Colored Apples Tasted Differently

Normal Apples

Guess What!?

It was Unripe Persimmon (aka Japanese Fruit)

The Plum Tree

Plums on the Ground

Sour!

Mikael Liked Apples

Smurf Style

Another Mushroom

I Loved Them

Out of Curiosity I Uprooted this One

Mushroom Growth

Land in Kashmir is so Fertile that it can even Grow Chewing Gums :-P

Adding to the Beauty

The One in the Nursery

Jagran Nala Before Floods

The Same Jagran Nala after the Floods

The Cloud Attack Announcing the Flood Coming

It Kept Overcast and Drizzling for More Than 50 Hours Nonstop!

The Whole Valley was Seized

Jagran Resort after the Rains

Finally We Saw Some Clear Sky After 3 Days

 

A Memorial of 2010 Floods

Near Kutton Bazaar

The Way to the Uphill Jagran Power Station

An Under Construction Mosque in Kutton Bazaar

Politics Catching Up the Countryside Also

Government High School in Kutton

Finally I Found Desi Eggs!

The Local Specialty!

An Elevated Guesthouse in Kutton Bazaar

Another Shoddy Looking Guesthouse

An Advertising Opportunity

No, He is not Going for Jihad!

These Naughty Teens Did Not Even Spare a Grave Cradle

They Were Searching for Grapes

One for You!